KARL MAYER as specialist will present its latest innovations in
the denim sector
Denim has a unique appearance, it can be styled to create modern
fashion looks, and is therefore a best-seller for producers of
both high-fashion and classic garments. Just as important for
the entire textile supply chain is the market for this indigo
fabric. By constantly coming up with new developments,
manufacturers are making the production process increasingly
efficient and extending the design possibilities. One of the
most successful manufacturers active in this field is KARL
MAYER. This market leader in warp preparation (among other
things) has combined the open-width dyeing technologies
developed by the MOENUS-SUCKER Group, Benninger’s Weaving
Preparation Division and IRA L. Griffin, and has optimised its
machine range. As a result, it has made a name for itself as a
one-stop supplier of denim technology. It will be showing its
latest innovations in this field at the ITMA ASIA + CITME fair
on stand D 01 in hall E 3. More specifically, KARL MAYER will be
showing a long chain beamer, a ball warper, a dye box and the
KARL MAYER has been focusing its R&D work
in the denim field on integrating new functions and processes in
the weaving preparatory stages. Combined sequences can improve
quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity along
the entire production chain.
For many manufacturers, denim production
begins with loading bobbins onto a creel. From there, the yarns
are taken-off and brought together for the subsequent dyeing
process – onto a beam for the SLASHER DYEING PROCESS or to form
a rope for the ROPE DYEING PROCESS.
The SLASHER DYEING PROCESS combines dyeing
with sizing in a semi-continuous sequence. In this combined
processing technique, the yarns are taken-off together from
eight to 24 beams under a controlled tension, fed through a
dyeing and sizing section, and finally wound onto a weaving
The discontinuous ROPE DYEING PROCESS
operates with wound ropes, the so-called balls. The ropes from
between 12 and 36 of these balls are taken-off without being
under a controlled tension, fed to the dyeing section, and then
coiled into cans. They are then opened out for the subsequent
sizing process and the yarns are wound next to each other onto a
beam. Between 8 and 24 beams run together under a controlled
tension through the sizing machine. A beaming/winding process is
the final stage in producing the warp beam. Fig. 1 shows
diagrams of the SLASHER DYEING PROCESS and the ROPE DYEING
Fig. 1: Diagram of the SLASHER DYEING PROCESS.(above) The
ROPE DYEING PROCESS (below).
Both processes are becoming more and more
important because of the different quality requirements of the
market, and KARL MAYER is able to offer the right sort of
machine for both processing sequences.
KARL MAYER’s denim
With its denim machines, KARL MAYER is able
to meet the requirements of the market in terms of efficiency,
quality and flexibility. Some clear trends have emerged here
over the last few years. The quality standards of the big market
suppliers, such as Wrangler Blue Bell and Levi Strauss, have
become the accepted benchmarks for denim products. At the same
time, the move away from traditional denim work clothing towards
more avantgarde, high-fashion leisure wear means that the
processing machinery has to be extremely flexible and adaptable.
And, of course, lucrative markets demand a
technology that offers maximum economic viability and a
competitive cost:benefit ratio.
KARL MAYER is able to meet the many demands
made of machine manufacturers with its range of state-of-the-art
machines especially for the denim sector.
The ball warper (Fig. 2) is used at the
beginning of the ROPE DYEING PROCESS for bringing the yarns
together from the creel to form a rope. This machine guarantees
controlled, accurate rope formation. To do this, it operates
with a controlled tension and handles the yarns very gently.
The technical features of the machine
include pneumatically controlled disc brake technology (Fig. 3)
for synchronous braking, a semi-automatic pneumatic cylinder for
loading and unloading the beams (Fig. 4), and the integrated
Sheet Vacuum Suction (SVS) system for removing fly, dirt and
other loose particles from the yarn sheet. Keeping the
processing environment clean reduces contamination during the
wet treatment processes.
Fig. 3: The braking system.
Fig. 4: The device for loading and unloading the beam.
Particular care is taken with the package
build on the ball warper. The machine produces top of the line
windings thanks to a traverse mechanism with
circumference-dependent image interference, whilst ball tracks
and compression cylinders with optimum leverage ratios produce
wound packages having a perfectly parallel build.
The traverse, compression pressure and the
yarn tension (in conjunction with the DiscTens) are set
automatically to the optimum values in each case. Data relating
to the number of yarns, the yarn count and the total length form
the basis of the self-regulation system, and the values can be
input very easily using a newly developed, intelligent input
The guide rollers in front of (Fig. 5) and
at the ball warper keep the yarn sheet in an open-width state
for longer – a feature that is useful for detecting and dealing
with yarn breakages optimally. All in all, the entire machine,
with its ergonomic design, meets all the principles of
KARL MAYER’s ball warper operates at a
width of 1,200 mm and can reach production speeds of up to 400
Long chain beamer
The long chain beamer (Fig. 6) processes
ropes to form beams - a process that has to be carried out after
dyeing in the ROPE DYEING PROCESS. The machine produces beams
having diameters of up to 1,000 mm. It has a working width of
1,800 mm and can reach maximum production speeds of 500 m/min.
A number of technical features guarantee
quality, maximum efficiency and simple handling. The yarn
tension is controlled automatically during the entire process by
a dancer assembly. The prerequisites for this are efficient
motors and data on the number of yarns and the yarn count, which
are input in advance.
In addition, a “strummer” is in front of
the main reed facilitates opening of the yarn sheet. An
unrestricted recovery system, which makes it easier to repair
yarn breakages, comes as standard. The long chain beamer is
extremely easy to operate, even for inexperienced operators,
since the data can be input easily via a touchscreen and very
few measurements have to be taken. Its compact construction also
means that it requires less space in the production hall.
Optional features, which offer advantages
in terms of ergonomics, quality and efficiency, include a tub
turner for preventing the rope from twisting, a lamellae yarn
breakage detector, which enables two machines to be supervised
by one operator, and a press roller for increasing the beam
capacity by 20 to 25%.
The Indig-O-Matic multicolour dyeing
machine features a modular construction (Fig. 7). In every
configuration, it combines efficient components and offers
manufacturers the flexible machines they need to operate on the
denim market with all its many requirements in the fashion,
leisure wear and workwear sectors.
Fig. 7: A diagram of the
Indig-O-Matic for the ROPE DYEING PROCESS
Main components of
The Indigo Dyeing Pilot, as
the key element of the machine, involves computer-controlled
handling of the dyes and chemicals in terms of their storage,
preparation and dosing. This reduces wastage and environmental
The KAMCOS® control
system, which accurately displays and optimally
adjusts the elongation and tension values in every zone for
every processing stage in the machine. Any faults and weak
places in the processing chain can therefore be detected
easily and dealt with efficiently.
The WarpLink system for
fully automatic beam changing. This system reduces waste by
about 50% when changing the sets, and it is also possible to
process jobs having short running lengths of up to 10,000 m,
without any loss of productivity.
The VARIO system for ROPE-
and SLASHER-DYENG, which is based on a uniform process control
system and machine philosophy. The VARIO combines a high
circulation rate with precise distribution when handling the
liquid, and is especially suitable for producing highly
concentrated, very dark shades. The VARIO DOUBLE is a modular
dyeing unit, which can be used flexibly for both conventional
as well as nitrogen or reactor dyeing.
A steamer with special entry and exit
openings for avoiding water vapour clouds.
A quick oxidation system for stabilising
the climatic conditions during processing. The QUICK
OXIDATION system reduces the length of the air passage by
more than 30% and works according to the cross flow principle.
This method involves blowing air intensively at a constant
temperature into the reaction zone to achieve concentrated and
completely uniform indigo oxidation, thus improving fixing of
the indigo pigment onto the yarn.
The eco wash trough, which
operates with roughly 10-15% less wash water than similar
The compact CSB size box,
which operates with the tried-and-tested triple-dip and
double-nip squeezing technology, and guarantees uniform size
application over the entire surface.
The BM beaming machine, which guarantees
a constant and uniform package build.
A completely automated chemicals kitchen
and a measuring system for the indigo dyeing process.
All the process components can be combined
without any interface problems, and the yarn is fed accurately,
reliably and compactly through the system. State-of-the-art
components guarantee optimum results. These include
high-resolution, high-precision yarn tension measuring devices,
yarn guides with conically tapered sides, guide rollers having a
special grooved design, and a lifting roller system for
equalising different yarn consumption values. The yarn is also
handled gently by means of an accurate, continuous yarn guide
With its high-precision components, the
Indig-O-Matic produces warp beams having totally uniform working
widths and homogeneous yarn volumes.
KARL MAYER’s production equipment thus
offers a high level of machine efficiency, reproducibility and
machine availability - performance features which guarantee a
high level of efficiency when producing denim.
In addition to the ball warper, long chain
beamer and Indig-O-Matic, which will be on show at ITMA ASIA +
CITME, KARL MAYER is complementing its DENIM processing range
with suitable machines and components from its general product
portfolio. These mainly include the Size-O-Matic sizing machine
for processing staple-fibre-yarns, which is used when carrying
out sizing and dyeing separately, the WarpDirect® direct warping
machine, and various creels for supplying the yarns.
KARL MAYER is expected to show a new creel
system in Shanghai. This new system is suitable for both the
SLASHER DYEING and ROPE DYEING PROCESSES and operates using the
new DiscTens yarn tensioner.
It was designed especially to meet
the requirements of customers operating on the denim market. The
visitors can see Karl Mayertechnology at its stand D 01 located
in at hall E 3.