Innovations in intelligent apparel and technical textiles
by Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon.
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Technical textiles
are the high performance fabrics specially manufactured for
various industrial specialized individual applications. The
market trends for traditional textiles are heavily inclined
towards countries with cheap labor. In such an environment,
technical textiles give an opportunity to the companies in
the industrialized countries to survive the competition and
to achieve sustainable growth due to their specialized
skills, materials, processes and equipments. US and EU
continue to be major manufacturers and consumers of
technical textiles, the Asian countries like China and India
have recently emerged as production centers of technical
textiles. Russia is also an important market where the
consumption of technical textiles is growing at a fast
speed. Turkey's technical textiles market has also started
to develop in the recent years. The total global sale of
technical textiles is expected to touch US$139 billion by
2012. Asia is fast emerging as the chief producer and to
some degree consumer of technical textiles. This paper
highlights and demonstrates the technical and their future
contribution to the development of economics of newly
developing countries, such as China, South East Asia, and
North Africa etc. A special focus is placed on the
innovations in intelligent apparel and technical textiles
now span the whole market. |
Technical textiles are high performance textiles that require
special functionality. The market of technical textiles is
significant and expanding as the products are being put to an
ever-increasing number of end uses in various industries such as
agriculture, clothing, construction, health care,
transportation, packaging, sports, environmental protection,
protective wear and many more although technical textiles have
attracted considerable attention, the use of fibers, yarns and
fabrics for applications other than clothing and furnishing is
not new phenomenon. What is relatively new is a growing
recognition of the economic and strategic potential of such
textiles to the fiber and fabric manufacturing and processing
industries. In some of the most developed markets technical
products already account for as much as 50 % of all textile
manufacturing activity and output.
The technical textiles supply chain is a long and complex one
stretching from the manufacturers of polymers for technical
fibers, coating and specialty membranes, through the converters
and fabricators who incorporate technical textiles into finished
products and use them as an essential part of their industrial
operations.
World market for technical textiles at 21 million tonnes (US
$ 120 billion) during 2007-08 is expected to increase to 26
million tonnes (US $139 billion) by 2012 with an average
increase of 4%- 5% depending on the area of application.
Presently, Japan, Germany, the US, the UK, France, Turkey China
and India are the key producers of technical textiles. These
countries except China and Turkey have practically abandoned
producing conventional textile products.
The historical progress of technical textiles has seen the
advance of alternative textile forming technologies, most
prominently the broad family of nonwovens techniques, but also
warp and weft knitting, stitch bonding and modern braiding
methods. The use of loose fibres with sophisticated
cross-sectional profiles for insulation, protection and
fibrefill applications is another important growth area. On the
other hand, the total value of yarns and fibres and of all
technical products will grow slightly less fast than their
volume because of changing mix of materials and technologies,
especially reflecting the growth of nonwovens.
In machinery development, the trend will be towards
automation in all stages including computer colour match
prediction and composition of designs in printing. The evolution
will be towards equipments using less and less of water like
continuous dyeing, HT steaming and 'thermosoling' are expected
to make rapid strides with increasing use of infra-red in many
applications.
In fibre technology and development, emphasis will be on the
fibre blends and modification in cellulose. Fibre with better
dimensional stability, soft handle coupled with modified dyeing
properties will be in demand. The share of synthetic fibres in
the technical textile sector will rise from 79% in 2000 to 81%
by 2010. There will also be an increase in the share of
nonwovens and will grow from 35% in 2000 to 39% by 2010 in
weight terms. This increase will largely be at the expense of
woven fabrics, whose share will decrease from 58% to 53%.
In finishing, functional knits, transparent fabrics weighing
less than 100 g/m2, micro-fibbers, leisure wear, non-staining
and easy care fabrics, fire proof, weather protection, free of
harmful chemicals will be in demand. The tendency will be to
evolve a "universal finish" which at one stage will impart easy
care, flame retardant and bactericidal characteristics to the
textile material. The development of synthetic polymer fibbers,
production of high performance fibbers and high technology
textiles will rapidly change the textile industry from science
served to science based. Technical textiles are used in a wide
range of end-use applications and markets, including
agricultural; automotive; building/ construction/ engineering;
medical and hygiene; packaging; protective clothing; sports and
sportswear; and transport. According to the Techtextil
classification 12 main application areas for textiles have been
defined as given below:
- Agrotech: agriculture,
horticulture, forestry and fishing.
- Buildtech: Building
and construction.
- Clothtech: functional
components of shoes and clothing
- Geotech: geotextiles
and civil engineering.
- Hometech: products
used in the home; components of furniture and floor coverings.
- Indutech: filtration
and other products used in industry.
- Medtech: hygiene and
medical.
- Mobiltech:
transportation, construction, equipment and furnishing.
- Oekotech:
environmental protection.
- Packotech: packaging
and storage.
- Protech: personal and
property protection.
- Sporttech: sports and
leisure technical components.
The sector-wise market size of technical textile is given in
Table 1 and region-wise of consumption of technical textile is
given in Table 2.
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Table 1:Market
Size of Technical Textiles
(sector wise)
Quantity: 000 Tonnes
Value: US : $ Million |
|
Sector |
2005 |
2010 |
|
Quantity |
Value |
Quantity |
Value |
|
Agrotech |
1,615 |
6,568 |
1,958 |
8,079 |
|
Buildtech |
2,033 |
7,296 |
2,591 |
9,325 |
|
Clothtech |
1,413 |
7,014 |
1,656 |
8,306 |
|
Geotech |
319 |
927 |
413 |
1,203 |
|
Hometech |
2,499 |
7,622 |
2,853 |
8,778 |
|
Indutech |
2,624 |
16,687 |
3,257 |
21,528 |
|
Medtech |
1,928 |
6,670 |
2,380 |
8,238 |
|
Mobiltech |
2,828 |
26,861 |
3,338 |
29,282 |
|
Paktech |
2,990 |
5,329 |
3,606 |
6,630 |
|
Protech |
279 |
5,873 |
340 |
6,857 |
|
Sporttech |
1,153 |
16,052 |
1,382 |
19,062 |
|
Oekotech |
287 |
1,039 |
400 |
1,389 |
|
Total |
19,683 |
106,899 |
23,774 |
127,288 |
|
Source: David Rigby
Associates / Techtextil |
|
Table 2:
Consumption of Technical Textiles
(By Region)
Quantity: 000
Tonnes
Value: US : $ Million |
|
Region |
2005 |
2010 |
|
Quantity |
Value |
Quantity |
Value |
|
West Europe |
4,107 |
23,968 |
4,760 |
21,047 |
|
East Europe |
666 |
4,583 |
817 |
5,225 |
|
North America |
4,774 |
23,710 |
5,591 |
27,561 |
|
South America |
1,004 |
6,348 |
1,230 |
7,255 |
|
Asia |
8,091 |
47,075 |
10,156 |
65,156 |
|
Other Countries |
1,041 |
1,215 |
1,220 |
1,044 |
|
Total |
19,683 |
106,899 |
23,774 |
127,288 |
|
Source: Technical Textiles
and Industrial Nonwovens: World Market forecast to 2010,
David Rigby Associates |
World Consumption
World consumption of this sector is estimated 19.68 million
tonnes in 2005 and will rise to 23.77 million tonnes in 2010
with an average growth rate of 3.8%. The largest application
areas by value are transport, industrial and sports-related
products. But the faster growing sectors up to 2010 will be the
geo-textiles and medical and hygiene related products. Asia will
accounts for 45% of the market by weight in 2010 compared with
23% in the case of Europe and 29% for the Americas. It is
estimated that the volume growth of technical textiles in
developing countries will average between 4% and 5% per annum to
year 2010.
Fibre Consumption: Textile structures made of polylactic acid
and polyglycolic acid fibres are being used as structures for
cell growth. Human organic tissues like skin, cartilage, liver,
pancreas and kidney can be grown on temporary bioresorbable
textile supports. Smart fibres loaded with drugs and based on
naturally occurring polymers as non - animal - based protein
fibres and structures are being developed for the treatment of
wounds and ulcers. Global fibre consumption is given in Table
3.
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Table 3: Fiber-wise Consumption |
|
Fiber |
Consumption |
|
Polyester |
25 % |
|
Polyolefins |
25 % |
|
Glass |
15 % |
|
Jute, etc |
14 % |
|
Cotton |
7 % |
|
Viscose |
3 % |
|
Other Cellulosics |
3 % |
|
Polyamide |
7 % |
|
Aramid and Carbon Fiberes |
1 % |
|
Total |
100 % |
|
Source: David Rigby
Associates / Techtextil |
New Innovations
From easy-care clothing to astronaut's suits, innovations in
intelligent apparel and technical textiles now span the whole
market, from everyday benefits that make the wearer's life
easier to critical applications whose function is saving lives.
Apart from providing increased personal protection in all
sorts of work environments, technical textiles for clothing
end-uses are also becoming more comfortable, easier to wear and
easier to care for. Most developments in wearable electronics
are still aimed at the iPod or MP3 user, although the emergency
services and military are exploring applications like built-in
electric lighting within garments.
A new partnership between Naturally Twisted Ltd, a UK based
textile technology developer, and Wera and Beverley Productions
from New Zealand, has led to a new range of knitted innovations
that combine conductive yarns, novel structures and smart
electronics. The fully integrated textile structure is
electrically heated and gives fabrics that are both soft and
flexible for a range of active apparel and outdoor wear
garments.
High performance yarns, such as Kevlar, are at the core of
some other innovative knitted structures and products from
Beverley Productions, designed to protect the body literally
from top to toe. These include the comfort of a near seamless
knitted anti-flash hood for protection against fire and
disfiguring burns, and a lightweight boot that stops a chainsaw
in less than one second.
Technical workwear
The Chinese company Shanghai Talon Fibre Co Ltd has developed
polysulfonamide, or PSA, a fire protective aromatic polyamide
fibre that can withstand long-term temperatures of 250ºC and
short-term temperatures of 300ºC.

As a direct competitor to Nomex, applications include space
suits, special military uniforms, fire-fighters' protective
clothing, electric welding suits, furnace suits, oil field and
refinery and chemical protective clothing. A new plant has been
built to produce this new fibre with capacity for 1000 tonnes
per year.

Successful products inevitably attract cheap imitations,
although in the field of fire resistant personal protective
clothing compromises are out of the question. Austrian company
Lenzing works with selected quality partners worldwide. It’s
Lenzing FR flame resistant agent is incorporated directly into
the fibre matrix before spinning, giving permanent flame
resistance that is unaffected by washing or physical abrasion.
Silver service
Silver is recognized by the medical community for its
antimicrobial properties. One of the best-known fibres is
X-Static, which uses pure silver to inhibit the growth of
odor-causing bacteria and fungi, as well as dissipating
electrical charges and electromagnetic interference.
The silver is irreversibly bonded to the fibres, making its
benefits permanent and preventing it from washing or wearing
off. Canadian company TIK Security Knits uses DuPont Nomex IIIA,
X-Static and Lycra in its new Silver Security Knit double velour
fleece fabrics for garments and blankets. The fabric protects
against flash fires and electric arcs.
The company also produces a DuPont Nomex IIIA flame resistant
single sided fleece with 150% stretch in the width, and 80%
stretch in the length. And its innovative engineered three-ply
flame resistant stretch fleece laminate, called FlameResistor,
is made from modified acrylic, cotton, polyester and X-Static,
and is permanently flame resistant and will not melt nor drip.
Aluminised fabrics are a speciality of the US' Gentex, and
are used in fire-fighting apparel to combat radiant heat from
high-intensity fires, and to protect industrial workers from
molten metal splashes. The five-layer textile structure is said
to reflect 95% of infrared heat.
Membrane technology
Schoeller Textil from Switzerland has a new membrane
technology called C-change which adapts its moisture vapour
permeability in response to different weather conditions. The
water and windproof 'Bionic Climate Membrane' opens its
structure at high temperatures, or during periods of strenuous
activity, so that excess heat can escape. During cold weather or
periods of inactivity, the structure of the membrane closes,
retaining body heat.
Eco-friendly a key theme
Cocona fabrics and yarns from Trap Tek in the US are made
from coconut shells and provide evaporative cooling by pulling
moisture away from the skin and spreading it across the fabric
surface.
Activated carbon embedded within the yarns and fibres also
absorbs harmful UV rays, and depending on fabric construction
and Cocona content, up to 30 Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF)
can be provided. Odour molecules, too, are trapped by the
activated carbon, and are then released and the carbon refreshed
by the heat from washing and drying.
Coconut activated carbon is a recycled, sustainable material,
since coconut shells are a waste product from the food industry.
Coconut yarns may be blended with cotton and wool as well as
man-made fibres.
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Medical and hygiene applications are
more inclined towards single use disposable nonwovens. |
Barriers and antimicrobials
Waterproof, windproof and breathable Skyair membranes from
the UK Company Skymark are developed around the latest resin and
manufacturing technology, and are recommended for both outdoor
clothing and the health care field.
Skyair is a monolithic membrane and free from any pores;
which means that it is an excellent bacterial barrier whilst
also being breathable. In hospital environments and operating
rooms it can protect staff from bacteria, viruses, blood and
other fluids, whilst still being comfortable to wear.
Aegis Enhanced is a comprehensive range of antimicrobial
chemical treatments developed by the Belgian Devan Group, which
provide additional functionalities to enhance comfort and well
being. These include a host of different chemical finishes for
moisture management, stretch recovery, sensory management,
shrink resist, flame retardant, and anti static technology - all
of which are also antimicrobial.
Conclusion
Global markets of technical textiles and nonwovens continue
to grow. World market for technical textiles at 21 million
tonnes (US $ 120 billion) during 2007-08 is expected to increase
to 26 million tonnes (US $139 billion) by 2012.
The future development of the technical textiles markets and
products will largely be centered upon new materials, new
processes and new applications operating on a global basis for
the development of economies of scale in production and product
development.
New challenges are emerging from the switch to a
“market-pull” industry dynamic from the previous
“technology-push” which is leading to changes in the demands
placed on the industry and the relative power and influence of
participation at different levels in the supply chain. In these
circumstances, textiles are playing major role through its
diversified applications and undoubtedly the future of this
technical textiles appears tom be bright in this, lot of uses
are there. They are medical textiles, protective textiles,
agricultural textiles, geo textiles, automotive textiles, smart
textiles and industrial textiles.
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