Introduction

Sewing is a process in which cut pieces are put together and joined with the help of thread. For this purpose, stitching machines are used. In last few decades, there is a huge change in the machine speed. Change in machine speed demands a thread of very high strength, low thick and thin places, smooth surface, no hairiness, no knots, and less count variation. Conversely, end user of garment needs a clean stitch line, fewer thread breaks, high grip of pieces of fabric, and closed stitches. Stitching thread manufacturing is an ancillary industry of garment manufacturing since it is one of the basic requirements of garment manufactures. Selection of stitching thread depends upon many factors such as; quality and availability of stitching thread, credit facilities, prices, etc. The garment manufactures often complain about low production and attribute poor performance of stitching thread as one of the main factors.  

There are numerous kinds of stitching threads. It all depends upon the requirements of the garment manufacturer, particularly on the type of fabric, which is to be joined. There is a long list of different fibres, which are used to make stitching thread. Nevertheless, the most common is cotton and polyester. There are many factors to judge the quality parameters to assess the performance of stitching thread. J & P Coats has adopted the following quality parameters to judge the suitability and worth of stitching thread:

1. Actual Count.
2. Strength (cN).
3. Tenacity (cN/textile).
4. Friction/Variation.
5. Uptake %.
6. Sewable faults performance Kilometer.
7. Sewable faults performance Kilometer.
8. Total Faults.

These factors play a significant role in the performance of stitching thread. Generally, people are well aware about the role of stitching thread in the production of garments. However, which parameter plays crucial role in the performance of stitching thread needs to be evaluated. In this study, our purpose is to develop an association between performance of stitching thread and most significant stitching thread characteristics.

Research methodology

Before finalizing the research methodology, the users of stitching thread were contacted in order to seek their guidance regarding stitching thread performance. After consulting thread manufacturers and garment producers, we finalized the following methods to conduct this research:

1. Selection of stitching hall where a certain product is being sewn and firm has a plan to stitch same garment minimum for next one week;
2. We selected stitching thread from J&P Coats as benchmark and its performance was compared with other brands, which were used by these firms, where we conducted trials;
3. Garment producing companies agreed to run for three consecutive days the brand they are using and for next three consecutive days stitching thread recommended by J&P Coats;
4. The production and thread breakage frequency was observed, keeping all other variables constant, like, number of machines, group of operators, product description, working environment (hall temperature, level of humidity, noise level etc);
5. The production and thread breakage data of six working days was observed. It was divided into two groups; three days with the brand which is already under use (Thread a) and three days with J & P Coats brand (Thread b);
6. After completion of trials, the testing of both brands to measure the following parameters was observed as follows.

I. Actual Count.

II. Strength (cN).

III. Tenacity (cN/textile).

IV. Friction/Variation.

V. Uptake %.

VI. Sewable faults performance Kilometer.

VII. Sewable faults performance Kilometer.

VIII. Total Faults.

  7.     All data was analyzed with the help of SPSS software.

Data collection

Five firms producing knitted garments, fitted bed sheets, denim shirts, and trousers were selected for trials. These firms were using different threads provided by local manufacturers.

Following procedure was adopted to conduct trials:

1. Selection of one production hall to conduct the trial;
2. Production and breakage of thread during stitching monitored for first three days of week, while they were using thread supplied by a local manufacturers.
3. Production and breakage of thread during stitching was monitored for rest of three days of week, while they were using thread which was provided by J&P Coats.
4. Both types of stitching thread were tested to check their, actual count, strength, friction and faults.
5. After completion of trials, data was analyzed with the help of SPSS software.

 Data analysis

Data was summarized and an effort was made to present relationship among the production, number of faults and thread breakage. The tables and diagrams are self-explanatory and provide enough evidence to reach at a conclusion.

Discussion

Table 1 to 5 depict that approximately there is an average increase of 25% in production of clothing. For this additional production, firms had to bear additional cost in shape of expenses of stitching thread. This additional cost is quite negligible when it is compared with the total cost of production. Other than this minor cost, firms did not bear any additional expenses. There is no increase of overhead expenses. It means that firms can increase their production up to 25% without adding any machine, operator, or working for long hours. Tables further show that there is a significant difference in the parameters of stitching thread manufactured by different firms. It is clear from the tables that major differences are in the following areas:

1. Strength of stitching thread.
2. Tenacity.
3. Lubrication.
4. Sewable faults.
5.  Nonsewn able.

Data provides evidence that for better stitching thread, one has to improve the strength of yarn and effort to have minimum sewable and non-sew able faults in stitching thread. By having such type of yarn,

there are less chances of stitching thread breakage during stitching process. Consequently, there are bright chances that firms can have approximately 25% extra production, without additional sewing machines, increase in number of workers, additional working place and fixed cost. Nevertheless, there is a minor increase in the cost of stitching thread. In addition to increase in production, firms can have other benefits by using quality-stitching thread. These includes, timely delivery of goods, smooth and fine seams, better wages of workers (mostly workers are working on piece rates), better stitch bursting strength and finally higher profits.

Conclusion

Stitching thread is highly significant parameter for better productivity. It was observed that many units do not consider it as one of important factors, which has a strong association with production. They place emphasis on increased production by adding more machines, whereas, it is possible to increase production up to 25%, just by using the right stitching thread. Although, stitching thread with low count variation, low number of faults and of high strength is costly, but detailed analysis proves that at the end of the day, additional costs pay additional benefits. There is a huge difference in benefits and cost. Benefits are highter than the additional cost. It is recommended that before using stitching thread, firms should get the stitching thread tested and compare their results in order to increase production efficiency.