World recession and the impact on the
global textile and apparel industry
by A.H.H. Saheed,
Chartered Marketer.The collapse of the USA
sub-prime market and worst ever global financial crisis has had
serious repercussions not only for developed world’s economy but
for developing markets as well. The impact of this crisis on
developing and emerging economies is widespread. The financial
meltdown inevitably backlashes on consumer markets and broadly
on the process of investment in the production of goods and
services.
According to World Bank, the world economy is likely to grow
by 2 to 7 percent in 2010, after shrinking in 2009, with almost
all developed countries posted negative growth in 2009, despite
numerous stimulus packages and government action of
unprecedented scale.
Overall, global gross domestic product (GDP)-a broad
measure of the output of the goods and services, that fell 2.2%
last year-is expected to expand 2.7% in 2010 and 3.2% in 2011.
The growth will be led by developing countries, whose
economies would have “relatively robust’ growth of 5.2% this
year and 5.8% in 2011, after managing to buck the global
downturn with 1.2% growth in 2009. China’s massive economy would
continue to be the primary engine, with growth at 9% this year
and the next. South Asia would post a 6.9% expansion in 2010,
including a 7.5% rise in India.
Rich countries, impacted the most by the global financial
crisis would not recover so quickly. Developed economies which
experienced 3.3% plunge in GDP last year were projected to grow
by 1.8% in 2010 and 2.3% in 2011. The United States, the world’s
biggest economy and the epicenter of the financial crisis that
triggered the downturn would be see 2.5% growth in 2010 and 2.7%
in 2011.
The countries relying on trade as a primary means of boosting
economic growth, saw trade volumes disappear as contraction
started on trading partners. Growth in trade volume fell to
3.3% in 2008 as compared to 7.2% growth in 2007 and plummeted by
14.4% in 2009. However trade volume were projected to expand by
4.3% in 2010 and accelerated to 6.2% in 2011.
Protectionism is also manifested itself in many countries,
following a fall in trade international markets. The wave came
at a time when governments around the world became anxious with
closure of factories, rising unemployment which has in turn
threatened political and social stability.
The global textile and garment industry also has been hit
hard by the global financial crisis. The impact on the textile,
garment, leather and footwear sectors has been dramatic. Since
June 2008 over 8,200 factories have been closed and an
estimated 11.8 million workers have lost their jobs. Further 3
million jobs are estimated to be at risk. The situation is
particularly tragic for workers in the developing countries,
where there are no social safety nets. In addition, as many as
80% of the workers involved are women and again vast majority
are less than 24 years old and often the only breadwinner in
their extended family.
Demand for textile and garments dropped considerably during
the past few quarters, especially in USA, Europe and Japan due
to falling consumer confidence and rising unemployment figures.
Many consumers are now focusing on prices and are shifting
demand to lower –priced products and/or postponing consumption.
With the exception of few export oriented nations of clothing
–namely Bangladesh and Vietnam most are suffering from strong
reductions.
The competitive environment has changed, and manufacturers
who have enjoyed success over the last decade are having to
rethink their strategies.
Trade has become more liberal over the last fourteen years
with the elimination of quotas, but this has made the market
more competitive.
At the same time retailers and consumers are placing new
demands on suppliers. It is no longer special to simply offer
the best prices-or even the best quality nor it is sufficient
just to be able to deliver on time. All of this factors are now
taken for granted.
In additions to above, and on top of this, there are wider
issues Corporate Social responsibility – CSR, to address.
Manufacturers are required to ensure that the working conditions
in their factories meet acceptable standards and increasingly to
minimize any adverse impact of their operations on the
environment.
It is seem that suppliers who are geographically close to
their main markets enjoy a distinct competitive advantage over
those based some distance away. The competitive advantages has
become stronger in recent years as fashion cycle have become
shorter, the number of collections in a year has increased, and
pressure on manufacturers to reduce lead times has intensified.
The cost of transportation from nearby sources is usually
lower and transportation times quicker. Moreover, it is
generally easier to make adjustments to existing orders, and to
replenish inventories in-season, when the goods are manufactured
in a nearby country.
The 3rd quarter of 2009 confirmed the strong rebound of the
global textile production observed in the previous quarter. Both
yarn and fabric production rose modestly in all most all
regions, especially in South America, while North America
recorded stagnant output.
World yarn production rose in the 3rd quarter 2009 by +1.3%
as compared quarter confirming the impressive rebound of the
2nd quarter (+22%). With the exception of North America (-2.3%)
all regions recorded increases, especially South America (+5%),
Europe (+4.5%) and Asia (+1.2).
Fabric production also grew worldwide by +1.2% in the 3rd
quarter of 2009. Global fabric production increased or remained
stable in all regions. In Asia and North America fabric
production was unchanged compared to the previous quarter.
Europe on the other hand recorded a slight increase of 0.9%,
while fabric production in South America surged by 18.1%.
Year-on-year global fabric production was up by +4.2% due to
higher outputs in South America (+11.8%) and Asia (+6.1%), while
North America and Europe still recorded significantly lower
production levels (-17.1% and 17.9%, respectively).
World textile and clothing trade grew by 5% to US$ 612
billion during 2008 (latest data released by WTO in November
2009). This rise is comparatively lower to Growth of 13.5% in
2003,12% in 2004, 5.2% in 2005,10% in 2006 and 10.6% in 2007.
Clothing with US$ 362 billion accounted for 59.2% and textile
with US$ 250 billion accounted for 40.8% in 2008. The growth in
clothing was lower with a growth of 4.6% in 2008, following a
growth of 11.9% in 2007 and 11.7% in 2006.
Reflecting the global economic slowdown Chinese textile and
clothing exports with US$ 73 billion were down by 11% in the
first-six months of 2009 after growing by 8.2% in 2008 and 18.9%
in 2007.
In the USA market in exports of Chinese textile and
clothing in the first-ten months of 2009 with US$ 26.8 bn
declined by 4.3% and clothing with US$19.9 bn only grew by mere
1.4% over same period of 2008. However, the growth should have
been faster, after the removal of safeguard quota’s restricting
USA imports of several products from China at the end of last
year.
In the USA market all the other Asian major apparel
exporting countries also suffered decline in their exports
during Jan/Oct. 2009. Bangladesh- down by 0.13%, India-down by
7.32%, Pakistan-down by 12.40%, Sri Lanka-down by 16.71% and
Vietnam-down by 3.36%.
The largest supplier of clothing to the EU during 12 months
ending June 30th 2009 was China with a 44.8% share of the total
value, showing a sizeable increase of 6.3% from a share of 38.5%
a year earlier.
Chinese manufacturers have enjoyed growing demand from
buyers in the EU, partly because they have successfully dealt
with the rising value of renminbi and upward pressure on wages.
They have done so by moving up to value added market and also
making better quality clothing, while relocating basic
manufacturing operations to lower cost areas inland or abroad.
Of the remaining top ten supplying countries to EU during
year 2008 were Bangladesh, India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan. These
countries were the only other suppliers to enjoy growth in value
and volume terms during the year ending June 30th, 2009. However
in the case of Vietnam exports to EU rose by 6.7% in value
terms but fell by sharp 32.7% in volume-reflecting a significant
58.6% rise in the average price.
India has targeted exports of textile and apparel of US$50
billion by 2012, but achieved only US$ 21billion by 2008/2009
compared to US$22 billion previous year.
Pakistan suffered a decline in exports of textiles and
clothing and reported US$ 17.6 billion in 2008/2009 against a
target of US$ 22 billion. The government has set a textile
sector export target of US$ 25 billion in next 5 years.
Sri Lanka’s textile and garment exports which was US$ 2.52
billion during first-three quarters of 2008 has dropped to US$
2.40 billion during the same period of 2009. Garment exports
which was US$2.39 billion during above period of 2008 also has
dropped to US$2.23 billion during 2009.
However, new low-cost countries have emerged with
double-digit export growth, adding additional capacities vacated
by bigger countries and leveraging their lower labour cost.
Examples, include Bangladesh and Vietnam as in 2008 Bangladesh
and Vietnam respectively posted 23% and 21% growth in clothing
exports .
Vietnam estimated the garment export turnover of US$ 10
billion in 2009 i.e. US$900 million more than 2008.
Against this market background, governments in the main
textile and clothing producing countries had to modify support
structure for their exporters on a regular basis for past year
and continue to do so. The Governments of these countries
announced textile and clothing Stimulus plans in 2009 to meet
these challenges. Some of them are as follows:
China
The government announced a 3 year plan to revitalize the
textile and clothing industry with focus in following aspects.
- Enlarge domestic market-expand domestic demand.
- Consolidation of the industry.
- Phase out obsolete capacity.
- Up –gradation in value chain.
- Relocation of industry from south east to the rural west.
- Increase in export tax rebate from 11% to 16%, and timely
release of the rebate.
India
- Moratorium on repayment of loans by one-year.
- US$64 million package under Market Linked Focus Product
Scheme (MLFPS) on apparel and leather exports giving duty
certificates. (2% on fob value over above existing drawback
schemes).
- Thrust on attracting Foreign Direct Investment-FDI-
targeted US$ 8 billion in new investments over the next 5
years.
- 50% reduction in excise duty.
- Fast tracking incentive claims to improve
liquidity-releasing the entire pending Technology Up gradation
Fund Scheme-TUFS amount till FY-2009. TUFS also extended till
31st March 2012.
- Reschedule Loans of all textile and clothing units.
- Financial support for exporters for market development.
US$ 25 million.
Pakistan
- Seeking duty-free access to USA market.
- 3% interest subsidy on spinning investments for 2 years
- Fast tracking incentive claims to improve liquidity.
- Moratorium on loans by one-year up to the end of 2009.
- Allocates US$.484 million to Export Investment Support
Fund for textile sector.
Vietnam
- Direct subsidy of US$21 million to the industry.
- Reduction of VAT on cotton imports from 10% to 5%.
- Subsidized financing for cotton imports.
Sri Lanka
- Introduction of 5% and 3% incentive under EDRS (Export
Development Reward Scheme).
It is not only governments of the textile and clothing
producing countries that are providing fresh stimuli to their
manufactures, companies also reusing and fine tuning their
individual strategies on a regular basis to ensure that they are
able to maintain their cash-flow.
2010 Outlook: For better or worse?
The global economy was spared a meltdown in 2009 and
appeared to have stabilized now. Does 2010 looks better times
ahead or long year of recovery? Here are some views expressed by
economists/business community.
Professor Nouriel Roubini, Economist at Stern School of
Business at New York University says, “I do expect that the
world economy, especially the advanced economy, is going to have
weak economic growth for number of factors. There is a weakness
in the labour market first of all. Secondly you have shopped -
out consumers, who are saving less, and they have burdened in
the USA, the UK, in Ireland, in Spain, in Australia, in the
Baltics, New Zealand, in Dubai-in all these countries where the
housing bubble went bust. They have to save more to reduce their
leverage, they are not going to consume very much.”
He added, “While I am concerned about advanced economies, I
have a more bullish view of China and the emerging markets,
especially in the Asia and there is lot of attention in Asia.
This mainly due to the fact that in the next few years, as long
as reforms continues, China and growth in other Asian countries
are going to be one of the most significant components of global
economic growth, So, the future belongs to Asia in many ways.
Peter Wong, Executive Director,HSBC Asia Pacific
says, “As far as 2010, is concerned, I’d probably say it is
going to be transition year. That’s because, in 2010, the US
economy is still not certain. Therefore the interest rate will
continue to be low and therefore there will be huge liquidity
coming out at very low interest rates, and this will present,
may be a risk of too much liquidity, and therefore asset
bubbles, so we have to watch out for that. In 2011, the US
economy will be much better. Interest rate will come back up a
bit, so bank earnings would be much better, and also the exports
and imports of various countries will be better. So I think that
2010 is not going to be easy, but 2011 will be pretty good.”
Cliff Sun, Chairman Federation of Hong Kong Industries
says, “Since mid-2009, there have been a sign of recovery
locally and internationally. The majority of manufacturing
companies reported business improvement, but still not at levels
preceding the financial tsunami.”
Generally, there has been a 20% increase in export value
compared to the period during the worst part of the financial
tsunami. But there has been a 10% decrease in average-order
value. Industry members say the drop reflected the anxiety over
high-priced products by overseas buyers, who tended to buy lower
priced items, a trend expected to continue in 2010.
Overseas market recovery in the United States and Japan has
been slow. In contrast, business on the Chinese mainland and
South American markets has recorded an increase in export value
for the third-quarter of 2009, both compared to data during and
before the financial tsunami, indicating that the economic
turmoil has a lesser impact on these markets.
Many Hong Kong manufacturers are preparing to explore the
mainland market. They are willing to develop their own brands
and upgrade their trade products in order to enter the domestic
market. Some will transform from a processing plant to a foreign
invested enterprise, so that they can sell their products in the
domestic market.
Sources-World Bank, WTO, Hong
Kong Trader,ITMF, OTEXA, Euratex etc.
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