Indian Textile Industry: 7th largest global exporter of textiles
by: Dr. Noor Ahmed
Memon.The Indian Textile Industry is currently
one of the largest and most important industries in the Indian
economy in terms of output, foreign exchange earnings and
employment. The industry contributes 4% to the country's GDP,
14% to the country's industrial production and around 12% to the
country's foreign exchange earnings. However, the textile
industry was one of the drastic hit industries on the back of
Global economic melt down.
As per WTO data, India's percentage share in global textiles
and clothing trade was 4% in textiles, and 2.8% in clothing
during the year 2008. India's rank in world trade has been 7th
in textiles and 6th in clothing. Other remarkable fact is that
it is the 4th largest producer of staple fibre and 6th among
filament yarn producers. It accounts for one fourth of global
trade in cotton yarn.
On the other hand India is the third largest producer of
cotton in the world after China and US and has the largest area
under cultivation. Cotton, a key raw material in the textile and
garment industry, accounts for about 30% of the fabric cost and
13% of the garment cost. India has an abundant supply of locally
grown long staple cotton, which lends it a cost advantage in the
home textile and apparels segments.
Other countries, like China and Pakistan, have relatively
lower supply of locally grown long staple cotton. Moreover, low
cotton prices due to a bumper cotton crop would enable India to
lower its production cost and sustain pricing pressure. Further
efforts on improving the yield per hectare would ensure higher
productivity and production, thereby providing the much-needed
security of raw-material supply to textile producers.
The cotton/ man-made fibre textile industry is the largest
organized industry in the country in terms of employment (nearly
1 million workers) and number of units. Besides, there are a
large number of subsidiary industries dependent on this sector,
such as those manufacturing machinery, accessories, stores,
ancillaries, dyes and chemicals. There were 1773 cotton/manmade
fibre textile mills (non-SSI) in the country with an installed
capacity of 35 million spindles, 4,61,000 rotors and 56,000
looms.
Textile production covering man-made fibre, filament yarn and
spun yarn showed a minor set back in 2008-09. Man-made fibre
production recorded a fall of about 14% and filament yarn
production recorded a fall of about 6% during 2008-09. Blended
and 100% non-cotton yarn production recorded a fall of about
4.4% during 2008-09.
During 2008-09 cloth production by handloom, power loom
decreased by about 4% and 3%, hosiery sectors production
increased by 2%. However, overall cloth production decreased by
about 2% during 2008-09.
The production of man-made staple fibre industry achieved a
growth rate of 8.9% during 2007-08 showing an increase trend as
compared to the corresponding period of 2006-07, but, the
man-made staple fibre industry attenuated 14.2% decline during
2008-09... The production of viscose staple fibre and acrylic
staple fibre decreased to 5% and 45%, respectively during
2008-09. The production of polyester staple fibre also decreased
to 11% during 2008-09.
The total production of man-made filament yarn also decreased
to about 2.27% during 2008-09. The production of nylon filament
yarn and polyester filament yarn decreased to 30% and 2.5%,
respectively during 2008- 09.
But, the production of viscose filament yarn increased to 22%
during 2008-09. The installed capacity and of production of
man-made staple fibre and filament yarn are given at Table 1.
|
Table 1:
Installed capacity and production of man-made
staple fibre/filament yarn |
|
Type |
No. of units |
Installed capacity |
Production (Million. Kgs |
|
2006-07 |
2007-08 |
2008-2009 |
|
Staple Fibre |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Viscose |
3 |
229 |
230 |
242 |
229 |
|
Polyester |
17 |
628 |
754 |
820 |
733 |
|
PP |
4 |
3 |
1 |
2 |
2 |
|
Acrylic |
7 |
108 |
131 |
144 |
78 |
|
Total |
31 |
968 |
1117 |
1217 |
1042 |
|
Filament |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nylon |
7 |
37 |
38 |
40 |
28 |
|
Polyester |
43 |
1076 |
1225 |
1348 |
1315 |
|
PP |
17 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
16 |
|
Viscose |
7 |
53 |
53 |
54 |
66 |
|
Total |
74 |
1178 |
1,331 |
1458 |
1425 |
|
Source: Ministry of Textile, Goverment of India. |
Exports
Global textile and clothing industry is currently pegged at
around US$ 440 billion. US and European markets dominate the
global textile trade accounting for 64% of clothing and 39% of
textile market.
India's textiles and clothing industry is one of the
mainstays of national economy. It is also one of the largest
contributing sectors of India's exports worldwide. At current
prices the Indian textiles industry is pegged at US$ 52 billion,
64% of which services domestic demand.
Exports of textiles and clothing products from India have
increased steadily over the last few years, particularly after
2004 when textiles exports quota were discontinued. During
2003-04, 2004-05, 2005-06, 2006-07 and 2007-08 exports were of
the order of US$13.5 billion, US$ 14.0 billion, US$ 17.52
billion, US$ 19.15 billion and US$ 22.13 billion respectively,
denoting an increase of 64% in last five years. The volume of
exports, as compared to certain other countries, could not
register a faster growth due to various reasons like constraints
of infrastructure, high power and transaction cost, incidence of
state level cess and duties, lack of state-of-the-art technology
etc.
Textile exports in 2008-09 registered a decline of 5.4% from
$22.14 billion in the previous fiscal to $20.94 billion. Table-2
shows Indian Textile Exports (Top ten countries)
The exports basket consists of a wide range of items
comprising readymade garments, cotton textiles, handloom
textiles, man-made fibre textiles, wool and woollen goods, silk,
jute and handicrafts including carpets.
India's textiles products, including handlooms and
handicrafts, are exported to more than a hundred countries.
However, the USA and the EU, account for about two-third of
India's textiles exports. The European Union is the single
largest market for India's textiles products, accounting for 34%
of India's total textiles exports, followed by USA which
accounts for nearly 25%. The other major export destinations are
Canada, U.A.E., Japan, Saudi Arabia, Republic of Korea,
Bangladesh, Turkey, etc. Table -3 Shows Indian Textile Exports (Eu
and other countrles)
Domestic demand of textile products cushioned some of the
effects of the downturn. In 2008-09, the industry was estimated
to be $55 billion, of which the domestic sector constitutes $34
billion. Indian textile exports is given in Table-2
|
Table 2:
Textile exports - top ten countries
(Value: US $ Million) |
|
Sl. No |
Country |
2007-08 |
2008-09 |
% Share 2007-08 |
% Share 2007-09 |
|
1 |
USA |
4624.33 |
4268.45 |
20.88 |
20.38 |
|
2 |
UK |
1663.64 |
1697.35 |
7.51 |
8.11 |
|
3 |
UAE |
1357.80 |
1623.76 |
6.13 |
7.75 |
|
4 |
Germany |
1366.83 |
1607.33 |
6.17 |
7.65 |
|
5 |
France |
885.42 |
934.41 |
4.00 |
4.46 |
|
6 |
Italy |
852.17 |
782.13 |
3.85 |
3.74 |
|
7 |
Spain |
578.91 |
645.54 |
2.61 |
3.08 |
|
8 |
The Netherland |
482.31 |
537.77 |
2.18 |
2.57 |
|
9 |
Bangladesh |
720.88 |
508.85 |
3.26 |
2.83 |
|
10 |
China |
1132.57 |
440.51 |
5.11 |
2.10 |
| |
Total (TopTen) |
13664.86 |
13046.11 |
61.70 |
62.30 |
| |
Others |
8481.91 |
7893.69 |
38.30 |
37.70 |
| |
Total |
2,2146.78 |
20939.80 |
-- |
-- |
|
Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata |
With the dismantling of quotas, global textile trade is
expected to grow (as per Mc Kinsey estimates) to US$ 650 billion
by 2010 (5 year CAGR of 10%). Although China is likely to become
the 'supplier of choice', other low cost producers like India
would also benefit as the overseas importers would try to
mitigate their risk of sourcing from only one country. The
two-fold increase in global textile trade to drive India's
exports growth. India's textile export (at US$ 22 billion in
2008) is expected to grow to US$ 40 billion, capturing a market
share of close to 8% by 2010. India, in particular, is likely to
benefit from the rising demand in the home textiles and apparels
segment, wherein it has competitive edge against its neighbour.
|
Table 3:
Textile Exports EU Countries
(Value: US $ Million) |
|
Country |
2007-08 |
2008-09 |
% Share
2008-09 |
|
Austria |
35.41 |
33.05 |
0.16 |
|
Belgium |
399.67 |
416.32 |
1.99 |
|
Bulgaria |
10.15 |
7.63 |
0.04 |
|
Cyprus |
3.99 |
5.16 |
0.02 |
|
Czech Republic |
33.00 |
28.80 |
0.14 |
|
Denmark |
241.66 |
272.59 |
1.30 |
|
Estonia |
3.00 |
3.85 |
0.02 |
|
Finland |
60.69 |
61.02 |
4.29 |
|
France |
885.423 |
934.41 |
4.46 |
|
Germany |
1366.83 |
1607.33 |
7.68 |
|
Greece |
88.93 |
73.41 |
0.35 |
|
Hungary |
10.18 |
8.17 |
0.04 |
|
Ireland |
78.44 |
97.66 |
0.47 |
|
Italy |
852.17 |
782.13 |
3.74 |
|
Latvia |
7.99 |
4.56 |
0.02 |
|
Lithuania |
13.48 |
7.87 |
0.04 |
|
Luxembourg |
7.99 |
0.58 |
0.00 |
|
Malta |
1.52 |
1.22 |
0.01 |
|
The Netherlands |
482.31 |
537.77 |
2.57 |
|
Poland |
88.17 |
96.93 |
0.46 |
|
Portugal |
168.13 |
141.84 |
0.68 |
|
Romania |
20.42 |
25.86 |
0.12 |
|
Slovak Rep |
5.54 |
3.79 |
0.02 |
|
Slovenia |
13.39 |
12.51 |
0.06 |
|
Spain |
578.91 |
645.54 |
3.08 |
|
Sweden |
154.67 |
161.76 |
0.77 |
|
United Kingdom |
1663.64 |
1697.35 |
0.11 |
|
Total (EU) |
7270.33 |
7669.10 |
36.62 |
|
Others Countries |
14876.45 |
13270.69 |
63.38 |
|
Total Textiles |
22146.78 |
20939.80 |
|
|
Source : DGCI&S,
Kolkata |
Textile Ministry is also pursuing Foreign Trade Agreements
with the US and Europe and almost 40% of total revenue is
expected to come from these countries in the next three-years.
On the other hand government is also looking at markets across
Russia, China, South-East Asia, Middle-East, Japan and Latin
America to promote India's textile exports.
Technical textiles
India is the second largest textiles economy in the world
after China; however, its contribution to the global technical
textiles market is insignificant. The technical textiles
industry has immense potential in the developing countries,
particularly in China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and India. The
changing economic scenario in these countries will boost the
demand for technical textiles.
Technical textiles are textile materials and products used
for their technical performance and functional properties.
Technical textiles are an important part of the textile industry
and its potential is still largely untapped in India. With
increase in disposable income, the consumption of technical
textiles is expected to increase.
The Working Group for the Eleventh Five Year Plan has
estimated the market size of technical textiles to increase from
Rs.26,077 crore in 2006-07 to Rs. 52,200 crore in 2011-12
without any regulatory framework and to Rs.74758 crore with
regulatory framework. The Scheme for Growth and Development of
Technical Textiles (SGDTT) has been designed to promote
indigenous manufacture of technical textile to exploit the
global opportunities and cater to the domestic demand.
The global market size of the technical textiles industry
which was US $ 107 billion in 2005 is also expected to increase
to US $ 127 billion by 2010. The technical textiles represent a
multi-disciplinary field with numerous end use applications, and
it has penetrated all areas of economic activity like aerospace,
agriculture, sports, defence, construction and medical. Based on
their end use applications technical textiles are grouped into
twelve segments, viz. Agrotech, Buildtech, Clothtech, Geotech,
Hometech, Indutech, Meditech, Mobiltech, Packtech, Protech,
Sporttech and Oekotech. Technical textiles provide not only
better hygiene, safety, durability and comfort to consumers but
are cost effective in the long run. The life cycle cost of
technical textiles is lower than the traditional materials and
textiles. The textile sector witnessed an increase of 50% in
investment during 2008-09 to Rs 49,613 crore from Rs 31,161
crore in 2007-08.
Textile machinery
According to the Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association
(TMMA) production of textile machinery, parts and accessories,
has increased from Rs 37.05 billion in 2004-05 to Rs 40.63
billion in 2008-09, recording average annual growth of 2% and a
capacity utilisation of 50% during the year 2008-09. At present,
the total installed capacity of textile machinery industry in
India has a potential to manufacture textile machinery worth Rs.
3,050 crore, whereas the level of production during 2007-08 was
around Rs. 2,997 crore. Table-4 shows installed capacity and
production of textile machinery and Table-5 shows details of
production of textile machinery and parts.
|
Table 4:
Capacity Utilisationof the
Textile Machinery Industry
Value in Rs. Million |
|
Year |
Installed Capacity |
Production |
Capacity Utilisation |
|
2004-2005 |
61000 |
37050 |
61 % |
|
2005-2006 |
70000 |
44020 |
63 % |
|
2006-2007 |
80480 |
57530 |
71 % |
|
2007-2008 |
80480 |
61550 |
76 % |
|
2008-2009 |
80480 |
40630 |
50 % |
|
Source: Textile
Machinery Manufacturer’s Association (India). |
Exports remained stagnant over the last 3 years due to high
domestic demand and tough competition in the export market.
Exports of the textile machinery are remaining steady at Rs 6.07
billion in fiscal 2008-09 as against Rs 6.39 billion in fiscal
2007-08 due to demand for textile machinery has come down.
The textile machinery industry did not do well in 2008-09.
The slowdown in the textile industry during 2008-09 affected the
growth of the textile engineering industry (TEI) considerably,
as it has come down from 26% to only 7%. There is likely to be
negative growth during 2009-10. Export of textile machinery and
parts is given in Table-5.
|
Table: 5
Production of Textile Machinery , Parts and Accessories
Value In Rs. Millon |
|
Description |
2004-05 |
2005-07 |
2006-07 |
2007-08 |
2008-09 |
|
Spinning and allied machines |
22046.30 |
26188.6 |
34231.20 |
36622.20 |
(P) 27174.40 |
|
Synthetic filament yarn machines |
3764.20 |
4472.00 |
5844.80 |
6253.00 |
4127.90 |
|
Weaving and allied machines |
3742.30 |
4444.90 |
5809.50 |
6216.40 |
4103.50 |
|
Processing Machines |
3823.60 |
4541.10 |
5938.50 |
6351.90 |
4192.90 |
|
Misc.(spinning,weaving and
processing) machines |
1115.20 |
1324.20 |
1729.90 |
1852.60 |
1220.00 |
|
Textile testing and measuring
instruments |
733.40 |
871.40 |
1140.10 |
1218.60 |
804.30 |
|
Hosiery machines (inclusive of
hosiery machinery and needles) |
303.60 |
360.40 |
470.00 |
504.60 |
333.10 |
|
Spares and accessories |
1524.10 |
1813.20 |
2370.40 |
2530.70 |
1673.90 |
|
Grand total |
37052.70 |
44015.80
|
57534.40
|
61550.00
|
40630.00
|
|
Source: Textile
Machinery Manufacturer’s Association (India). |
Import of textile machinery reduced from Rs 7.0 billion
during 2006-07 to Rs 5.0 billion during 2008-09, due to good
demand of local machinery of weaving, knitting, processing and
garment sectors. Imports of textile machinery including second
hand machines are taking place a big way. The earlier spurt in
demand from the textile industry had triggered the TEI to
develop and expand the machinery- manufacturing capacity,
particularly in the spinning machinery sector. Import of textile
machinery into India is given in Table-7.
|
Table 6: Export
of textile machinery, parts and accessories
Value in Rs. Millon |
|
Description |
2004-2005 |
2005-2006 |
2006-2007 |
2007-2008 |
2008-2009 |
|
Machines for preparing textile
fibres, spinning, twisting, etc. |
949.00 |
683.10 |
811.60 |
1245.70 |
108.80 |
|
Weaving machines (looms) |
150.30 |
119.30 |
246.50 |
215.00 |
4464.50 |
|
Parts and accessories |
2211.6 |
2406.10 |
2775.50 |
4333.50 |
780.20 |
|
Other parts of household laundry
type machines etc |
300.40 |
546.70 |
420.10 |
601.30 |
718.70 |
|
Total |
3611.30 |
3773.20 |
4253.70 |
6395.50 |
6073.20 |
|
Source: Textile
Machinery Manufacturer’s Association (India). |
Textile Ministry is planning to increase capacity of textile
manufacturing Sector and planning to invest Rs. 1,40,000 crores
in textile machinery and other capital expense in next 5 years
in order to take a leap in annual exports of textiles and
garments from US $ 24 billion to US $ 55 billion.
Textile Engineering Industry has projected an investment of
around Rs. 5,000 crore in plant and machinery during 11th Plan
period and consequent increase in production to the level of Rs.
10,000 crore by 2012. To achieve this, the Ministry of Textiles
is encouraging modernization of the textile industry by
enhancing the allocations under Technology Up gradation Fund (TUF)
Scheme.
|
Table 7: Import
of textile machinery, parts and accessories
Value in Rs. Millon |
|
Description |
2004-2005 |
2005-2006 |
2006-2007 |
2007-2008 |
2008-2009 |
|
Machines for preparing textile
fibres, spinning, twisting, etc. |
8705.30 |
21262.50 |
38089.60 |
26289.00 |
20977.80 |
|
Weaving machines (looms) |
7834.20 |
15275.30 |
12596.20 |
11057.00 |
8716.50 |
|
Parts and accessories |
5680.00 |
8610.00 |
11150.00 |
9200.00 |
9420.00 |
|
Other parts of household laundry
type machines etc. |
2500.00 |
5500.00 |
7000.00 |
6000.00 |
5000.00 |
|
Total |
24719.50 |
50647.80 |
68835.80 |
52546.00 |
44114.30 |
|
Source: Textile
Machinery Manufacturer’s Association (India). |
Textile industry in eleventh five
year plan
The government is envisaging plan for developing and
promoting textile industry in the country. Implementing schemes
like Technology Up gradation Fund Scheme(TUFS), Scheme for
Integrated Textiles Park (SITP), Mill Gate Price Scheme (MGPS)
and Technology Mission schemes, namely Technology Mission on
Cotton (TMC) and Jute Technology Mission (JTM) to facilitate
Indian textiles industry to grow at the rate of 16% in value
terms to reach level of US$ 115 billion (comprising of US$ 55
billion of exports and US$ 60 billion of domestic market) and
attain 7% share in global textile trade by the terminal year of
the Eleventh Plan (2011-2012) period.
Integrated Textile Parks Scheme:
Two major schemes floated to enhance the involvement of the
private players in the textile industry. The government provided
40% subsidy to the weaving, processing and apparel units under
the integrated textile parks scheme. The 'Scheme for Integrated
Textile Parks (SITP)' is being implemented to facilitate setting
up of textile units with appropriate support infrastructure.
Industry Associations / Group of Entrepreneurs are the main
promoters of the Integrated Textiles Park (ITP).
Technology Upgradation Fund
Scheme (TUFS): The Technology Up-gradation Fund
Scheme (TUFS) was commissioned on 01.04.1999 initially for a
period of 5 years with a view to facilitate the modernization
and up-gradation of the textiles industry by providing credit at
reduced rates to the entrepreneurs both in the organized and the
unorganized sector. The Scheme, which has now been extended up
to 31.03.2012, has been fine-tuned to catapult the rapid
investments in the targeted segments of the textile industry.
TUFS has helped in the transition from a quantitatively
restricted textiles trade to market driven global merchandise.
It has infused an investment climate in the textiles sector and
in its operational life span has propelled investment of more
than Rs.1,66,839 crores.
The garmenting, technical textiles and processing segments of
the textiles industry have great potential to add value and
generate employment. In the Tenth Plan Period (2002-07), Rs.
1,270 crore had been earmarked for the scheme. However, the net
utilization of funds under this Scheme was Rs. 2044.17 crore.
The modified techno-financial parameters of the Scheme will
infuse capital help it capitalize on the vibrant and expanding
global and domestic markets, through technology up-gradation,
cost effectiveness, quality production, efficiency and global
competitiveness.
Under the scheme for integrated textile parks (SITP), the
government provides up to 40% of the cost of setting up a
textile park with a ceiling of Rs 40 crore. Till now the
Ministry has contributed Rs 450 crore and industry has pitched
in with nearly double this amount. The combined investment
touched Rs 2,000 crore by 2009.
Foreign Direct Investment:
In line with the action to attract foreign capital to the ailing
textile industry, the government has been recently exploring for
various foreign locations like in Japan. India has motivation
for foreign investors like low-cost labour and intellectual
right protection. The government has permitted 100% FDI in the
textiles sector.
India's Textile Ministry will try to attract European
investors to achieve the government's target of $6 billion of
Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) by 2015. At present textiles
industry is in need of an additional fund of $24 billion by the
year 2015 to continue a high growth rate of 8%. This may include
domestic investment of $ 18 billion and FDI of $6 billion.
Though India allows 100% FDI in the textiles sector, the inflows
were meagre at US$ 200 million in 2008.
The foreign investment is aimed towards establishment of
green field units in textiles machinery, fabric and garment
manufacturing and attracting investments in the field of
technical textiles.
Financial Package:
The government has offered a helping hand to the
country's ailing textile sector by announcing an Rs.3,000-crore
($627 million) financial package to waive loan overdues of
handloom cooperatives and make available loans at concessional
rates for the industry.
In this connection government has formulated a financial
package of Rs.3,000 crore for waiver of the overdues of loans of
the handloom cooperatives of the country and also, to provide
loans at concessional rates of 7% per annum.
Government will implement five new schemes during the 11th
Five-Year plan period (2007-12) for the development of the
handloom sector and the welfare of weavers.
|