Finishing with enzymes: bio finish for
cellulose
by Dr. S.M. Imtiazuddin, AVM Chemical
Industries.What are
Enzymes?
Enzymes are proteins. Like other proteins, enzymes consist of
long chains of amino acid, held together by peptide bonds. They
are present in all living cells. Where they perform a vital
function by controlling the metabolic process whereby nutrients
are converted into energy and fresh cell material. Furthermore,
enzyme takes part in the breakdown of food material into simpler
compounds. Some of the best known enzymes are those found in the
digestive tract where pepsin, trypsin and peptidases breakdown
proteins into amino acids, lipases split fats into glycerol and
fatty acids, and amylases breakdown starch into simples’ sugars.
Enzymes are basically biocatalysts. Enzymes are capable of
performing these tasks, because unlike food proteins such as egg
albumin, gelatine or soya protein, they help to catalyze
reactions. this means that by their more presence, and without
being consumed in the process, enzymes can speed up chemicals
process that would otherwise run very slowly, it at all.
Enzymes properties
1. Enzymes are specific
Contrary to inorganic catalysts such as acids, bases, metals,
and metal oxides, enzymes are very specific. In other words,
each enzyme can breakdown or synthesized one particular
compound. In some cases, they limited their actions to specific
both in the compound with which they react. Most proteases, for
instance, can breakdown several types of protein, but in each
protein molecule only certain bonds will be cleaned depending on
the which enzyme is used.
2. Enzymes are very efficient catalysts
The enzymes catalase, which is found abundantly in the liver
and in the red blood cells, is so efficient that in one minute.
One enzyme molecule can catalyze the breakdown of five millions
molecules of hydrogen peroxide to water and oxygen.
3. Origin – natural source
Enzymes are present in all biological systems. They come from
natural system and when the are degraded the amino acid of which
they are made of can be readily absorber back into nature.
4. Enzymes work only on renewable raw material
Fruits, cereals, milk, fats, meat, cotton leather and wood
are some typical candidates for enzymatic conversion in
industry. Both the usable products and the waste of most
enzymatic reaction are non-toxic and readily broken down Bio –
finishing, also called bio-polishing, is a finishing process
applied to cellulose textiles that produces permanent effects by
the use of enzymes. Bio finishing removes producing fiber and
slubs from fabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens
fabric hand and provides a smooth fabric appearance, especially
for knitwear and as a pretreatment for printing. In denim
processing, Bio-finishing can reduce or eliminate abrasive stone
and the aggressive chlorine chemistry.
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Enzyme
treatments of textile |
|
Types of enzymes |
Textile use and effects |
| Celluloses |
Bio-finishing,
bio-polishing, anti pilling, softness, smoothness, luster
improvement and stone washed effect on denim. |
| Amylases |
Standed procedure
for the removal of starch warps size. |
| Proteases |
In household
washing agents’ better removal of protein containing soil
or stains. Anti felting of wool, accompanied by high loss
of weight, tear strength and the typical handle, degumming
of silk with the problem of silk fibroin damage. |
| Lipases |
In detergents for
the hydrolysis of lipids. |
| Pettiness |
Hydrolysis of
pectins, for example in cotton preparation and retting of
flex and hemp. |
| Catalyses |
Catalyse the
decomposition of hydrogen peroxide, important before
reaction dying or printing of peroxide bleached fabrics
and yarns. |
| Peroxidases |
Used as an
enzymatic rinse process after reactive dying, oxidative
splitting of hydrolyzed reactive dyes on the fiber and in
the liquor, providing better wet fastness, decolorized
waste water and potentially toxic decomposition compound. |
| Ligninases |
Removal of burns
and other plant compound from raw wool. |
| Collagenases |
Removal of
residual skin parts in wool. |
| Esterases |
In development
polyester finish removal of oligomers. |
| Esterases |
In development
polyacrylonitrile preparation for better coloration. |
Bio-finishing is not only useful for cotton but also for
regenerated cellulose fabrics, especially for Lyocell and
microfiber articles. By incorporating enzymes into detergents to
remove protruding surface fibers, improved color retention is
achieved after multiple launderings. The disadvantages of
bio-finishing are the formation of fiber dust, which has to be
removed thoroughly, the reproducibility of the effect and in the
worst case, loss of tear strength.
Enzymes are high molecular weight proteins produced by living
organisms to catalyze the chemical reaction essential for the
organism’s survival. They have complex three – dimensional
structures composed of long chains of amino acids (Fig. 1 ) with
molecular weights ranging from 10,000 to about 150,000 and
occasionally to more the 10,000,00. These naturally occurring
molecules provides a high degree of catalytic specificity
unmatched by man-made catalysts.
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 |
|
Fig.1: Enzyme
structure. |
Action of cellulase enzymes on
cellulose
Enzymes that hydrolyse cellulose are found in nature in both
Trichoderma and Humicola fungi. The β (1-4) linkage between
adjacent repeat unit in the cellulose polymer chain are the
sites that are vulnerable to catalytic hydrolysis by celluloses
(Fig. 2).
|
 |
|
Fig. 2:
Cellulase hydrolysis site. |
These enzymes are thus able to provide a food source for the
organisms by producing glucose from cellulose. Industrial
production of cellulose involved large scale growth of fungal
populations, followed by extraction of the enzyme. The extracted
enzymes contain multiple compound that work together to yield
glucose from a cellulose polymer chain. At least four compounds
have been identified a being important in providing efficient
glucose production.
Endo – glucanases hydrolyse cellulose polymers from the non –
reducing end producing glucose and leaving a polymer chain with
one less repeat unit. Cellobiohydrolases produce cellobiose from
polymer chains, and cello biases convert cellobiose into
glucose. These components and their points of attack on cellose
polymer chain are shown in (Fig 3 & Fig 4).
 |
|
Fig. 3: Representation of cellulose
fiber internal structure. |
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 |
 |
|
Fig.4: Action
of cellulases components on cellulose. |
Chemistry of enzyme finishing
The enzyme cataysed hydrolysis of cellulose is strongly
influenced by factors such as pH, temperature, time and
agitation.
The optimal pH for the particular cellulase depends upon its
origin. Trichoderma – baed products ( some
time called acid cellulases ) work best at pH 4.5 – 6 whereas
cellulose from Humicola (often called neutral cellulases ) are
more effective at pH 6 – 6.5. The reaction temperature is also
critical since at low temperature, the reaction rate slower than
desired, but very high temperature can deactivate the enzyme by
providing enough energy to alter its molecular alignments and
thereby destroy its catalytic ability. Since enzymes are true
catalysts and are not consumed during the chemical reaction, the
hydrolysis reaction will continue until either the reaction
conditions change or the cellulose is physically removed from
the reaction mixture.
Mechanical agitation is important in order for the hydrolysis
reaction to proceed efficiently. Recent work has demonstrated
that the Kinetics of the the reaction are controlled by mass
transfer effects. The adsorption – desorption mechanism of
enzyme action depends on agitation to remove hydrolysis by
products and expose new fiber area to attack. Because the
enzymes catalytic action is not reduced during the reaction, an
effective method of ending the hydrolysis must be employed to
prevent excessive fiber loss.
Since the molecule’s physical alignments are crucial to its
catalytic ability, procedures that alter the cellulase
molecule’s internal structure can be used to deactivate the
catalysis and halt the hydrolysis. High temperature (>70˚ C for
at least 20 minutes or short drying at 120˚C)high pH (>10) and
high electrolyte content as well as enzyme poisons can serve to
terminate the reaction by distorting the enzyme’s molecular
shape. Recent developments in enzyme manufacturing have led to
commercial products. The contain a preponderance of one
cellulose component. These mono – component enzymes are produced
from modified Humicola strains and are primarily endo –
glucanases active at 7 – 7.5 and are referred to as alkaline
cellulases.
Evaluation of bio-finishing
The removal of cellulosic fiber to improve pilling
performance, soften hand, and creating abraded appearance
requires not only enzymatic hydrolysis, but also mechanical
action to carry out reaction by products physically. Therefore,
laboratory evaluations of bio-finished goods can only produce
relative rather than absolute results.
Enzyme suppliers determine the activity of their products by
measuring the extent of the catalysed reaction under carefully
controlled condition. A standard test exist for amalyases (AATCC
Test method 103), but the evaluation of cellulases more complex
and can very from supplier to supplier. One common method is to
measure the degradation of carboxymethyl cellulose solution.
Another is to determine the weight or strength loss of standard
cotton fabrics under laboratory conditions where there is a
correlation problem, because the mechanical conditions of the
technical application are different to the laboratory ones. For
example, the hydrolysis degree. HD, is determined by HD = mo –
m/mo, Where, mo and m are the weight of the test material
before and after bio – finishing.
References
1. Hohberg T and Thumms, ‘Finishing of Lyocell – part
3’ Melliand International,
1999, 5( 1), 83 – 85.
2. Breier R, ‘Rein enzymatische Antifilzausrustung
Von Wolle nach dem Lanazym – verfahrn’ Melliand Textilberichte,
2000,81 (4), 298 – 302.
3. Stohr R.Enzyme – biokatalysatoren in der
Textilveredlung, Melliand Textilberichte, 1995, 76(11), 1010 –
1013
4. Etters.JN, Annis PA, American Dyestuff Reporter,
1998, 87(5) 18 – 23
5. Stewart CW,Book of Papers, 1996 AATCC
International Technical Conference and Exhibition, Nashville,
TN,AATCC, Research Triangle Park, NC, 1996, 212 – 217
6. Novo’s Handbook of practical Biotechnology, Boyee
COL(ed), Bagsvaerd, Denmark, Novo Industries A/S, 1982, 77 – 81
7. Sarker A and Ethers JN, AATCC Review, 2001, 1(3),
48 – 52
8. Technical Manual of the American Association of
Textile Chemists and colorists, American Association to Textile
Chemists and Colorists, Research Triangle Park, NC, 1999. u
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