|
Declining garment order prices with subsequent narrower margins
for the manufacturers raise a legitimate dilemma. Are sueding,
raising and other surface finishing treatments really needed?
While raising on knitted fabrics e.g. fleece and polar fleece
are a necessity as is on mole-skin, flannel and blankets, sueding
is not essential. However, consumers are usually favouring not
only attractive looking garments and home textiles but are also
giving great importance to the feel which should be soft and
comfortable thus making even sueding a recommended "should
have".
With the many offerings presently available, commission finishers
(and also the Vertical textile units) should, therefore, carefully
consider having the right type of equipment to ensure the best
quality and performance costs.
Originally sueding was also referred to as sanding and peaching
was achieved mainly by machines having rollers covered with
conventional sand paper of various grades. These machines were
designed mainly for woven fabrics even though many knit fabrics
were also processed on the same machines. However, quality standards
were difficult to meet.
The "in thing"
In recent years "brush sueding" has become particularly
popular in both woven and knitted fabric sectors. Lafer Spa
was the first constructor to popularize brush sueding, especially
on open-width knits, with its UltraSoft machine, designed with
drum configuration and patented Delta System. Many finishing
machinery manufacturers later followed with other configurations
with drum or vertical set-ups.
The Delta System on drum configuration has proven to achieve
higher production capacities (and consequently lower operating
costs) with generally one pass required against at least two
on other machines due to the wider fabric to brush contact surface
which also allows to achieve much lesser surface hairiness in
order to avoid pilling. Streaking is another issue which has
been solved by the UltraSoft.
The "new thing"
At ITMA 2003, Lafer exhibited a development of the Ultrasoft
designed specifically for knits tubular form, which sparked
a lot of interest among visitors. In fact, the possibility of
brushing in tubular form is an advantage for fabrics to be eventually
cut in open-width or body-sizes.
Brushing in tubular form allows to dye the fabric after brushing
in order to maintain more shade uniformity between both brushed
and unbrushed faces. This has always been a possibility also
with open-width brushing machines. However, it is obviously
with tubular brushing machines dyeing preparation costs are
less expensive (no cutting+bag stitching). The critical issue
of "tubular brushing" is obviously the effect on the
edges of the tubular.
Lafer has developed various brush concepts in order to avoid
sueding differences and is about to launch its latest development
for tubular sueding.
Diamonds: “woven sueders” best friends
As the demand for a micro-sueded effected (i.e. soft touch but
non-visible, non-orientable surface) increased, Lafer further
developed its sueding machines for woven by adopting a synthetic
diamond based abrasive emery i.e. the Carbosint instead of conventional
emery. The Microsand machine always exploits the drum principle
(with 24-rollers) and together with the exclusive Carbosint
emery allows to achieve a new effect not possible with other
systems and at higher production speeds.
UltraSoft open width |
UltraSoft tubular |
Microsand |
The Carbosint's added advantage is its lifetime as runs of
over 1 million meters are the norm which allows to maintain
a more consistent and repeatable sueding effect over a longer
period of time compared to conventional sandpaper which requires
frequent replacements.
The Microsand can be adapted with a special type of ruby-based
abrasive and accessories suitable also for wet sueding when
special effects are desired.
Choose carefully
Finishing machinery suppliers offer a variety of machines that
deliver different results (performance and finishing quality)
and at different investment price ranges, giving finishers an
ample possibility to satisfy their specific immediate needs.
However once the investment break even point has been reached
not many machines have the traits of low operating costs, performance
and reliability, which can ensure long term advantages even
in turbulent times.
|
The "Aliante" magnetic expander for attracting
dimensional stability (without marks) on tubular knits
Not all tubular felt compactors on the market will easily
achieve satisfactory dimensional stability. However, the
main problem faced when compacting is edge marks caused
during feeding. Magnetic expanders have become almost
standard on tubular felt compactors. These devices allow
to adjust the full width range without having to apply
width extensions to conventional
|
Aliante magnetic expander
|
mechanical expanders. Yet it is quite common that these magnetic
expanders leave feed wheel marks on the sides of the fabrics
especially when processing darker shades due to the magnetic
pressure required to support the expander blades.
Conventional non-magnetic expanders normally had more possibilities
to overcome the marking problem due to the construction of the
expander itself and since the support pressure could be adjusted
differently. In order to overcome this typical problem of all
magnetic expanders, Lafer has designed the new Aliante magnetic
expander which can exploit the advantages of both systems, mechanical
and magnetic.
New automatic roving frame
by Electro-Jet
Electro-Jet has already been marketing for several months a
new automatic roving frame, with several units already working
both in Spain and abroad. This new machine, completely manufactured
by Electro-Jet, is capable of realising doffing in less than
1.5 min.
This roving frame starts automatically after the doffing, without
the need of any operator intervention. This allows a notable
reduction of the machine stop time, increasing significantly
this way the production of every roving frame.
With regard to the technical characteristics, it is important
to indicate that the flyers format
|
allows to choose between 16'' x 6'' or 16'' x 7''. The
activation of the flyers and the drafting is realised
by means of servomotors and driver, and only the count
adjustment must be realised by means of gears changing.
The controls, both at the feeding belt and at the superior
or inferior roving breakage, are realised by light barrier.
Individual electro-mechanical sensors can also be optionally
applied.
The communication between the operator and the machine
is realised by means of PC and touch screen, using a clear
and easy dialogue in windows basis. This allows to regulate
among other parameters, the roving meters on the bobbin,
the space between turns, the roving tension, the torsions
change, the shifts counter.
|
ADR Frame by Electro-Jet |
There is also a semiautomatic version of this roving frame,
with automatic operation of the functions and manual exchange
of bobbins-tubes.
Both roving frames are available from a minimum of 32 spindles
to a maximum of 160 spindles, having this last one a length
of 24 meters. Although several of these machines had already
been purchased by different spinning mills, this roving frame
was officially introduced in the ITMA show in Birmingham. Electro-Jet
was present in this show, where the company achieved a great
success with their full line of products.
|
