Introduction

Up to the present time, ring yarns have been regarded as a measure of quality for yarns produced by other spinning processes. Rotor, air jet and friction spinning have advantages of speed, in other words higher production out put productivity, but lacking compactness of yarn structure ultimately causing a fall in yarn strength. Even ring spun yarns are not perfect in structure, microscopic examination reveals that numerous fibres are poorly integrated because ring yarn structure is based on the spinning triangle, which is incapable of gathering up all the fibres fed.

In compact spinning, the fibres are integrated more tightly into the yarn structure, thus producing yarns that are less hairy, stronger, more extensible and lustrous. Fabrics produced from this yarn are softer and stronger, have better abrasion resistance, and better print and pattern definition. Compact spinning is simply the modification of conventional ring spinning system at drafting zone set up. The fibre-condensing zone immediately follows a three roller drafting system with double aprons. A perforated drum or apron replaces the bottom delivery roller of the drafting system for this purpose. A fixed suction system generating a vacuum is fitted inside this perforated medium. This results in a current of airflow from the outside to the inside of the perforated medium. The fibres delivered by the delivery nip line of the drafting system are thus held firmly on the surface of the perforation. A subsequent top roller also presses on the drum. The nip between this second top roller and drum clamps the spinning triangle i.e.yarns formation occurs immediately after this second nip.

Materials and methods The present research study entitled "Effect of some mechanical variables in condense spinning of cotton yarn" was planned in the Department of Fibre Technology, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad and performed at Ejaz Textile Mills Ltd., Sheikhupura.

Yarn Count: Yarn count was estimated through "Skein method" according to ASTM Standard (1997) with the help of Uster Auto Sorter, a direct reading instrument. A programme of count determination for 120 yards lea was fed to the computer to determine English count. The yarn count was noted from its automatic digital display.

Yarn Lea Strength: Yarn strength was determined by "Skein method" according to ASTM (1997a) by using pendulum type lea strength testing machine.

Analysis of Data
The data obtained were analysed statistically using completely randomized design (CRD). Duncan's multiple range test also applied for individual comparison of mean among various quality characteristic as suggested by Steel and Torrie (1984), on M-state Micro Computer Statistical program devised by Freed (1992).

The mean values for yarn count under different levels of twist multiplier is given in the table 2(a). It shows that yarn count for Tm1 = 3.70, Tm2 = 3.90 and Tm3 = 4.10 are as 29.79s, 29.65s and 29.53s respectively. The respective mean values of twist multiplier differ significantly from each other. The table exposes that there is decrease in yarn count with the increase of the twist multiplier. These findings get full support from the observations of Yousaf (1998) concluded that yarn count gradually shift toward the finer side with ascending twist.

Yarn lea strength
The statistical analysis of variance of the data pertaining to yarn lea strength is given in table 2. It indicates that twist multiplier and spindle speed have highly significant effect, whereas traveller size has significant effect upon yarn lea strength, while all the possible interactions produced non-significant effect for 30s yarn.

The mean values of yarn lea strength at the different levels of spindle speed i.e. SP1 = 17,000 rpm, SP2 = 19000 rpm and SP3 = 21,000 rpm are 96.55, 95.8 and 94.63 pounds respectively. The maximum lea strength obtained at SP1 i.e. 96.55 pound and minimum value at SP3 i.e. 94.63 pound. It reveals that yarn lea strength decreases as spindle speed increases. The same effect of spindle speed upon yarn lea strength has been studied by Haller (2001) investigated that the main advantages of exceptional yarn (condensed yarn) are low hairiness, higher yarn strength and elongation values.

The mean values pertaining to yarn lea strength under different levels of traveller size are tabulated in the table 2(a). The values are 95.67, 96.02 and 95.30 pounds for Tn1, Tn2 and Tn3 respectively and differ non-significantly with each other, but Tn2 and Tn3 differ significantly with each other. It indicates that medium weight traveller (Tn2) yields the highest yarn lea strength. These results are fully supported by the findings of Sheikh (2000a) stated that the condensed yarns produced exhibit better strength, uniformity, elastic recovery and lower I.P.I. values as compared to conventional ring yarns.

The mean values of yarn lea strength are given in the table 2 (a). The mean values are 93.20, 95.89, 97.90 pounds for Tm1 = 3.70, Tm2 = 3.90 and Tm3 = 4.10 respectively. All these values differ significantly from each other. It shows that as the twist factor increases, the yarn lea strength also increases. These results are in line with earlier researchers like Artzt (1998) stated that compact yarn also always displays higher strength and elongation at a breaking length above the fibre staple length.

Conclusions
The sum and substance of the present research study is as under:

1. From quality point of view, it was observed that lower spindle speed was better for yarn quality parameters viz. yarn count, yarn lea strength. From production point of view higher spindle speed was the best but it deteriorate the yarn quality.

2. In case of traveller size, it was found that moderate traveller number was better for yarn quality characteristics except yarn hairiness. Heavy weight traveller gave better results than light weight traveller for hairiness value.

3. As far as twist was concerned, it was inferred that maximum twist but not beyond optimal limit would produce the best quality yarn.

Literature cited
Anonymous. 1985. Determination of lea strength and lea count of spun yarn. Method of test for textiles. B.S. Hand Book No. 11. British Standards Institute, London.: 141-142.

Artzt, P. 1998. Compact spinning, a true innovation in staple fibre spinning. Int. Text. Bull. 1998(5): 26-32.

ASTM Committee. 1997. Standard test methods for yarn number and breaking strength by the 'Skein method'. ASTM Designations: D 1907-97 and D 1578-93 ASTM Standards on Text. Mater., Amer. Soc. for Test and Materials, Philadelphia, USA.

ASTM Committee. 1997a. Tentative method of test for strength of cotton fibre (flade bundle method). ASTM Designation: D 1445-75.ASTM Standard on Text. Mater. Amer. Soc. for Test. and Mater., Philadelphia, USA.

Freed, R.D. 1992. M-Stat. micro computer statistical program. Michigan State, University of Agriculture, Norway-342B. Agriculture Hall, East Lausing, Michigan Lausing, USA.

Haider, M.N. 2000. Study of spindle speed and twist multiplier for different yarn counts with special reference to end-breakage analysis. M.Sc. Thesis, Deptt. of Fibre Tech., Univ. of Agri., Faisalabad: 36-71.

Haller, S. 2001. Technical Documentation by Rieter. 29-33.

Pasha, H. 1987. Variation in yarn characteristics of different counts due to different travellers. M.Sc. Thesis, Deptt. of Fibre Tech., Univ. of Agri., Faisalabad: 51.

Sheikh, H.R.2000 a. Recent developments of ring spinning frames. Pak. Text. J. 49(8): 26-30.
Steel, R.G.D. and J.H. Torrie. 1984. Principles and procedures of statistics. 2nd Ed. McGraw Hill Book Co. Inc. Koga Kosha, Tokyo, Japan.

Yousaf, K.C. 1998. Effect of different blending of P/C with various twist factors on the quality of plain knitted fabrics. M.Sc. Thesis, Deptt. of Fibre Tech., Univ. Agri., Faisalabad.: 30-61.

Canada's apparel industry will have to adapt or lose thousands of jobs

As many as 31,000 jobs could be lost in the Canadian apparel industry as a result of liberalized trade and the emergence of China as a major domestic threat, a current study disclosed.

On Jan. 1, 2005, all remaining import quotas will be lifted by the World Trade Organization.

Canadian manufacturers will have to adapt to the changing environment to avoid the job losses, says the study, commissioned by the Apparel Human Resources Council and funded by the federal government.

Large retail chains, such as Wal-Mart and Winners that sell clothing at competitive prices, are a growing presence in the retail market and they're exerting pressure on manufacturers, said Vargha Moayed, managing director of Richter Consulting, which did the study.
"This pressure isn't going to stop," he told a news conference, adding that if domestic manufacturers can't respond, these chains will find offshore manufacturers to provide what they want at the price they want.

Moayed said the manufacturing industry will have to do more than make clothes to compete. It will have to be involved in such areas as design, marketing, selling and distributing and consider specializing in one or more of them, he said.

"China is emerging as the biggest threat to the domestic market, with imports into Canada rising by as much as 191% in 2002 on categories no longer restricted (by quotas)," the study said.

China's average hourly wage is 48 cents compared with $16 hourly in Canada, the study noted.

Chinese exports to the United States have increased by as much as 826%, while Canadian exports to the United States decreased by as much as 43%, the study also said.

In 2001, the Canadian apparel industry had more than 100,000 workers and the study indicated that figure would fall to about 63,000 by 2005.

Quebec accounts for 55% of the production while Ontario, Manitoba and British Columbia are other key apparel producers.

Elliot Lifson, president of the Canadian Apparel Federation, said in a statement, the Canada's apparel industry must strategically position itself.

"On one side it needs to take advantage of its domestic base and at the same time be flexible and realistic to new market realities," Lifson said.