Rising quality specifications accompanied by increasing cost pressure makes for a very challenging situation for textile finishers and the textile industry as a whole. Reliable, cost-effective products and technologies are essential for survival in this market.

DyStar markets high-quality products, efficient application procedures and expert service to help reduce customers' costs and give them an edge on quality. DyStar's Color Confidence and Controlled Coloration programmes translate these features into real customer benefits. The Color Confidence programme supports quality performance and ecological integrity in coloured fabrics, adding value through the entire textile processing chain, and there by minimising end-user complaints.

The Controlled Coloration programme is aimed at application benefits for the dyer and printer, combining reliable dye selection, application processes and know-how to optimise Right-First-Time dyeing and printing, and minimise production costs.

Global retailers and converters are putting increasing pressure on textile finishers to produce quality goods at lower cost. That means textile mills have to ensure rapid and reliable coloration. A single shading operation can raise the cost of dyeing by 20%; if the dyeing is still off-shade or unlevel even after several shading additions, production costs can double. Reliable and reproducible processes that ensure a high proportion of Right-First-Time dyeings and prints are, therefore, the key to success.

All textile finishers are aware that dyeing and printing are highly complex processes. One of the main problems is batch-to-batch reproducibility. Dyeings can be sensitive to changes in dyebath volume and the resulting changes in liquor ratio. The fibre blends that are currently fashionable make it particularly difficult to obtain the same shade and fastness properties on all fibres.

Dr. Michael Woydt, Head of Coloration Technology at DyStar, explains: "There are over a hundred potential errors that can affect the outcome. The most important factors for good reproducibility are the liquor ratio, using accurate amounts of dyes and chemicals and a detailed knowledge of textile substrates and dyeing and printing mechanisms. That means textile finishers need reliable partners and products."

Technical service and quality dyes for Controlled Coloration

DyStar's Controlled Coloration programme makes it an ideal partner for meeting these requirements, as Dr. Michael Woydt explains: "We have subsidiaries with trained staff and modern service labs in all major markets to make sure we can give our customers expert assistance before and during production. We pride ourselves on marketing reliable colorants for all fibres and processes. That is why our products undergo thorough testing and are standardised within very narrow tolerances."
Remazol RR reactive dyes for cellulosics are a good example of the principles of Controlled Coloration. The Remazol RR trichromatic combination was developed specifically for exhaust dyeing of difficult shades. Insensitivity to dyeing parameters such as salt, alkali, temperature, liquor ratio and process times ensures reliable application. Remazol RR dyes are carefully balanced, with good build-up and homogeneous fixation properties to ensure level, reproducible and economical dyeings.
Another example of Controlled Coloration is the Dianix CC range of disperse dyes for polyester. Dianix CC comprises 13 dyes that offer customers genuine benefits. The dyes are standardised within very narrow tolerances and the maximum deviation in colour strength is two percent. All Dianix CC dyes have been designed to be compatible in their application behaviour, based on uniform rates of dye uptake and diffusion.
Dianix CC dyes are also insensitive to fluctuations in dyeing times and temperatures, making them the right choice for reliable and reproducible Right-First-Time dyeings.

Automated Controlled Coloration with Optidye

Selecting the optimum dyeing method is extremely important for synthetic fibres such as polyester. A systematic examination of the dyeing process on the basis of physical chemical parameters, therefore, makes sense. That is why DyStar is focusing on computer-optimised dyeing: It has brought together its knowledge of dyeing mechanisms, dyes, substrates and machines in the Optidye( range of computer programs to analyse processes and calculate the optimum time/temperature profile for specific substrates and dyeing processes, the amount of auxiliaries required and the correct pH. Moreover, the Optidye programs can be integrated into established process control software. Optidye saves time and money by cutting process times and enhancing reliability. For example, Optidye P can considerably reduce dyeing times with Dianix CC compared with a standard process and also reduces auxiliary requirements by up to 25%.

Abacus software calculates profits

The savings made with Optidye have a clear impact on the bottom line. To quantify the benefits, DyStar has developed the Abacus computer program to calculate process costs and profits on the basis of key variables. Abacus helps dyers find the most economical process and can also be used as a guide in investment decisions such as purchasing new machinery. And naturally it is also an excellent way of quantifying the benefits of DyStar's Controlled Coloration concept.

The benefits of Controlled Coloration are clear. Ken Huang, Senior Vice President of Formosa Taffeta Co. Ltd. (FTC), Taiwan, the world's leading polyamide dyer, confirms that the concept pays off: "We used to work on the principle of trial and error. Optidye has made dyeing a calculable and automated process. Thanks to Optidye we have increased the reproducibility of dyeings to around 98% and cut operating costs by up to 10%. That gives us a clear competitive advantage."

Tangible benefits for textile finishers

DyStar also collaborates with leading textile machinery manufacturers, fibre producers, detergent suppliers, retailers and manufacturers of well-known brands. DyStar invests three to 4% of annual sales in R&D and offer its customers innovative products and application processes and extensive technical advice to help them cut costs, improve quality, raise productivity and enhance their competitive position.

Luft-roto plus:Economical exhaust dyeing technology

The Luft-roto plus and selected Levafix, Remazol and Procion reactive dyes can reduce exhaust dyeing cycles for cellulosics by up to 30% and virtually reduce water and chemical requirements to one-half. This technology was developed in cooperation with Thies.

Innodye/InnoVat: New jet dyeing concept

Innodye/InnoVat is a flexible and economical new jet dyeing technology. Developed in conjunction with Brazzoli, this economical system allows rapid and efficient dyeing with Levafix, Procion and Remazol reactive dyes and Indanthren vat dyes. This technology, therefore, meets demands for increased flexibility and improved colour fastness. The concept comprises the Innodye dyeing unit and the InnoVat dyeing process developed specifically for this unit. The Innodye unit uses unique vacuum technology that opens up completely new process options. It includes a patented traversing mechanism with a movable material basket. Innodye/InnoVat therefore ensures level dyeings even on problematic substrates.

Econtrol: Economical new continuous dyeing process

Econtrol is a rapid and reliable method of dyeing a wide range of substrates. It does not require steaming or curing and ensures high reproducibility and excellent fixation. Econtrol is a registered trademark of DyStar. It was developed in conjunction with Monforts and is based on the Thermex hotflue technology. Econtrol is environment-friendly and dyeing can be carried out without silicate, urea and salt, thus reducing recipe costs and effluent load. Econtrol is easy to use in the lab and lab-to-bulk reproducibility is very good. Excellent reproducibility and high fastness levels can be obtained on both lightweight and heavyweight cotton, viscose and Lyocell qualities with selected Levafix and Remazol reactive dyes.

Fluidyer: Reliable dyeing of carpets & pile

Fluidyer technology from Küsters and quality dyes from DyStar help dyehouses achieve their aims faster, more economically and more reliably. Unlike conventional technology, the Fluidyer applies the liquor directly to the fabric through rows of holes, giving liquor pick-ups of 80-350%.
A joint development project by DyStar and Küsters has developed this technology for dyeing pile fabrics. The world's only Fluidyer pilot plant, located in the service laboratory at DyStar's new headquarters in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, is available for test dyeings for customers.

Electrochemical decolorisation of textile effluent

The decolorisation of effluent is a new technology, which does not require chemicals or the disposal of residues. Electrochemical decolorisation is based on the principle that electrons in an electric current split textile dyes into smaller, colourless parts that are more readily biodegradable.

A cooperation agreement has been concluded with Benninger on the marketing of this environment-friendly technology. Pilot trials show that this technology can remove over 80% of colour from dyehouse effluent, especially effluent contaminated with reactive dyes. It is particularly effective for treating effluent from continuous dyeing which contains high dye concentrations.