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Huntsman and Brueckner
symposiums in Pakistan
Huntsman Textile Effects and the Brückner Group conducted joint
customer symposium with their respective agents Swisstex Chemicals
Pvt. Limited and Nazar Industries during April 2008 to highlight the
recent advances and innovations made in areas of chemical process
materials, process engineering and machinery technology related to
continuous dyeing and finishing of apparel and functional Textiles.
Being
held against a backdrop squeeze on processing margins, environmental
issues and steep increases in costs of raw materials, utilities,
power and labour, besides the perennial bottleneck in processing, the
symposiums made an effort to highlight “Innovation” as the solution to
the problems faced by the textile processing industry.
The symposiums outlined the recent innovations
made at HUNTSMAN with respect to both the dyes and chemicals and the
successful branding concepts created around this platform of
Innovation. Huntsman is represented in Pakistan by Swisstex Chemicals
(Pvt) Limited.
The Reactive dyestuffs developed specifically for
continuous processes (Novacron C) and it’s advantages over the
conventional Reactives were elucidated and highlighted.
The recent blockbuster breakthrough innovation
from Huntsman – Reactives with shades and behaviour similar to Vat
Dyes, ie. Novacron NC – specially for “Earth Tones” which makes use of
the Non Contrasting concept (Yellow, Brown, Olive & Grey) in place of
the conventional & contrasting hues of Yellow, Blue & Red held the
audience in rapt attent ion.
The above innovations, which also result in
considerable savings in water, energy and salt costs coupled with
complete reproducibility and reliability was much appreciated by
customers.
On the finishing front, the features and
advantages of the new Global Branding concept – High IQ, launched
across different platforms like Easy Care Plus, Cool Comfort,
Freshness, Active Comfort, Sun Protection, Sun Protection for Kids and
Lasting Colors were explained.
Besides the competitive advantages to the
customers arising out of Huntsman’s alliances with Invista (DuPont)
for branded oil & water repellency (Teflon), with Schoeller
Technologies (for branded double sided effects – 3XDRY) and with
Thomson Research Associates (for Silpure antimicr obials
based on Silver chemistry) were also highlighted.
Bruckner is represented in Pakistan by Nazer
Industries. The symposium was conducted by Axel Pieper, Uwe Kunze
and Volker von Eitzen and Abbas Mooraj
The Brückner Group has established itself as the
worldwide leading technological systems partner for complete finishing
and coating lines for all kinds of woven, knitted or technical
textiles.
Today the brand name “Brückner” stands for
“Quality made in Germany”. So far more than 5000 machines are
installed all over the world.
The Brückner experts highlighted during the
symposiums the unique features of their state-of-the-art technologies.
Their new Continuous Dyeing range has set new
standards in continuous dyeing. Brückner has completely reengineered
the two core machines of the continuous dyeing process:
v
The infrared pre-drying unit POWER-INFRATHERM and
v
the hotflue POWER-COLORTHERM.

Both machines can be considered as the most
modern and sophisticated machines of their kind.
The benefits of this new technology for the
textile finisher are: maximum colour-uniformity across both width and
length, elimination of colour shade variations and migration,
crease-free production, and 100% reproducibility of quality results
thanks to full automation of all machine parameters.
The Brückner POWER-COLORTHERM is suitable for all
dyestuffs: vat, vat-disperse, reactive and reactive-disperse.
For reactive dyes Brückner can also offer the
ECO-STEAM configuration. In this dyeing process the colour fixation
takes place in a humid environment with 25% relative humidity and a
temperature between 120-130°C. The benefits of the ECO-STEAM process
in comparison to other well known dyeing processes are given on the
next page.
Besides its new technology for continuous dyeing,
Brückner also presented its innovations for functional and technical
textiles.
Both functional and technical textiles are highly
innovative fields, which can offer great opportunities for textile
producers to differentiate themselves from their competitors via value
added products.
As a provider of complete systems solutions,
Brückner can offer all the necessary application and coating
technology as well as the technological know-how transfer and process
technology.
Universal Coating Range with Double-Face
technology
HUNTSMAN and BRÜCKNER have jointly developed
chemical recipes and machine concepts for the “Double-Face
Technology”.
This new technology involves a new universal
coating line with can produce multiple functional effects in one
machine pass saving thus energy and costs. Typical examples for
Double-Face textile effects are:

Such textile effects require special impregnation
and coating machinery like: padders, kiss roll applicators, knife over
air / knife over roller coating heads, rotary screen printing machines
or others.
All Brückner ranges, whether Continuous Dyeing
Ranges, Stenters, or machines for Coating or Technical Textiles are
tailor-made to meet every specific requirement of discerning
customers.
The symposiums received overwhelming response
from over 150 participants including the “who-is-who” of the Textile
Processing industry attending at either of the various locations.
The great interest reflects that the cooperation
between the chemical industry and the textile machine manufacturer is
the right concept to provide value added products and services to the
textile industry.
Dr. Michael Effing from Huntsman and Mr. A. Aziz
Nakhuda from Swisstex Chemicals also spoke at the occasion.
Other speakers include Mr. Abbas Mooraj, Abrar
Mooraj and Mr. Luqman Mooraj from Nazar Industries and Mr. Axel
Pieper, Uwe Kunze and Volker von Eitzen and Ulrich Gassan from
Bruckner Group
Special thanks to
Mrs. Petra Lehner from BRÜCKNER Trockentechnik GmbH & Co. KG for
editorial coverage.
Mr. M. Idrees Ahmed Textile Commissioner
comments
Mr. Mohammed Idrees Ahmed, Textile Commissioner
of the Government of Pakistan, was the chief guest at the symposium on
re-engineering in textile processing.
According to Mr. Idrees, the textile and clothing
trade has a very promising future. The trade has increased from US $
212 billion in 1990 to US $ 530 billion (textile 218 and clothing
312) in 2006. The clothing trade is growing at a faster rate. Pakistan
exported textiles worth $7.47 billion and clothing worth $3 billion in
2006.
Developing countries now account for half of
world textile exports and almost three quarters of world clothing
exports. The future market shares would depend on price and quality
advantage where efficiency would be the main driving force. Simulation
results have shown that Pakistan will be one of the few developing
countries which will retain its competitiveness in international
textile trade.”
Mr. Mohammed Idrees said that the textile
industry will continue to be the main driving force in the industrial
and agricultural area. It contributes above 66% to the total export
earning of the country, accounts for 46% of the total manufacturing
and provides employment to 38% of the manufacturing labor force.
He also mentioned that “Pakistan’s textile
industry has proved its strength in the global market during the last
four decades. It has, however, to be facilitated to exploit its full
potential. The current scenario poses challenges firstly to sustain
its global positioning and secondly to increase its market share by
both incremental exports as well as increase in unit values.”
According to Mr. Idrees, the unit value can be
increased only through “marked improvement in quality, market tie-up,
image building and change in business philosophy. This requires
up-gradation in human skills, both in manufacturing and marketing,
investment in new technology, and up gradation in production
management.
The focus should be on development of large scale
units, which could concentrate on R&D, technical innovation, product
development on one hand and brand and market development on the
other.”
Mr. Idrees felt that the recent shift to value
added goods within textile sector requires developing capability in
design, processing, inventory management, marketing and keeping track
of the fashions and changing demand and adapting products to meet this
demand on time, while maintaining the quality.
“The textile industry,” he said, “has also to
take advantage of a high rate of growth in the volume of trade in
synthetic textiles. As the U.S. and European firms become
uncompetitive in textile and apparel business, Pakistani firms can
enter into joint venture agreements with them for technology transfer
and marketing.
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Mr. Luqman Mooraj, Mr. Abbas Mooraj and Mr. Abrar Mooraj. |
This combination of natural comparative
advantage, renewal of capital equipment, investment in training and
skill up gradation and joint ventures with the Western firms should
enable Pakistan to have a sustainable development on one hand and
increase in global share on the other.”
“Investment in new technology and human resources
has always been beneficial. It has been helpful in innovation, product
development and diversification. The industry has made investment of
US $7 billion in the last seven years creating about 550,000 new jobs
and incremental export surplus. It has helped in reshaping
competitiveness. Pakistan needs to modernize its textiles and clothing
sector. Modernization does, however, inevitably lead to the
introduction of somewhat more capital intensive technologies than the
outdated technologies currently in use.
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